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Cavalry Twill
Wool is one of the most widely used materials in making various fabrics, and its usage dates back to ancient times. The range of fabrics made of wool also includes the Cavalry Twill.
Common Applications
Hard Weaving Trousers, Dresses, Coats, Raincoats, Skirts, Suits, Uniforms, Bedding
Description
A right-hand twilled fabric with parallel double ribbed lines, often used for riding breeches
Wool is one of the most widely used materials in making various fabrics, and its usage dates back to ancient times. The range of fabrics made of wool also includes the Cavalry Twill. This fabric is made of worsted spun wool warp and consisted of a woolen weft that has been firmly milled and woven to emphasize the enticing steep double twill lines present on the fabric’s face.
The best Cavalry Twill fabrics are made of 100% wool, and manufacturers often use Marion Wool. At the same time, there are also some cheap quality Cavalry Twill fabrics available in the market. The cheaper Cavalry Twill is often made of viscose or cotton and has comparatively inferior quality than the ones made of original wool.
Background
Story
The idea behind the Cavalry Twill fabric originated from the military because the military cavalrymen often wore this fabric. The name Cavalry has been derived from the same military cavalrymen, which indicates this fabric’s roots.
Later, the Cavalry Twill was recognized by fashion industries worldwide, and now this fabric is one of the most widely used fabric for various purposes for making garments.
Manufacturing
Cavalry Twill is a sturdy woven fabric with a steepfirm warp-faced suiting that has a steep twill weave with double twill lines separated by pronounced grooves that are formed by the weftIt has a pronounced double twill line. Often of cotton or wool but may be any fiber.
This strong, rugged cloth is made with a pronounced raised cord on a 63-degree twill weave. The weaves used for calvary twill and elastique are the same. Cavalry twill has a somewhat coarser rib effect than elastique, which is smoother.
Cavalry Twill is categorized as a warp-faced twill. Other warp-faced twills that you might know are: Chino, Covert, Denim, Drill, Fancy Twill, Gabardine and Lining Twill. Because the Cavalry Twill fabric has double twill lines separated by grooves it is aheavy weight fabric.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Durability – This is one of the most prized advantages of twill weave. Its strength and durability make it ideal for workwear and furniture.
- Great drape – Twill weave drapes beautifully due to the diagonal ribs. This means that many thick fabrics still hand nicely for garments and they are soft to touch.
- High thread count – This makes the fabric strong and long-lasting.
- Stain-resistant – The diagonal ribs don’t attract stains and dirt easily which is why it is commonly used for workwear.
Used For
Cavalry twill is a fabric that is traditionally made of wool. It is a firm, durable twill weave cloth that can be characterised by the pronounced diagonal wales. It is very hard-wearing and was used to make riding breeches, and raincoats.
What are twill pants?
When you see the term ‘twill’ it is essentially referring to the way a woven fabric is made. Denim and chinos are technically also twill pants, however, the difference is in the dying of the threads and the weaving of the threads.
Twill fabric is made by weaving of two or more warp (vertical) threads over two or more weft (horizontal) threads, which will create a diagonal pattern. The diagonal weave is visible on the front of twill pants.
Pants made in this way helps create a strong stitch that makes for strong material. When cotton or cotton-blends are manufactured like this they become more resistant to wrinkling and maintain their shape better after being washed.
Is twill good for summer?
Cotton is a great fabric for the warmer months. As a natural fiber, it is breathable, light-weight and absorbs sweat well. Twill pants are mostly made of cotton or cotton-blends, and thus are a great option when you need to stay cooler in the summer heat.
When buying twill pants for summer, choose designs in light and bright colors. These colors help reflect the heat of the sun, while darker tones will absorb the heat of the sunrays.
Wearing pants during summer will additionally aid in protecting you from the UV of the sun by simply covering more of your skin.
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Chino/ Drill
There are so many varieties of men’s pants that it can sometimes be overwhelming to choose. Chinos are a style of men’s pants with specific characteristics. They are very versatile pants that combine modern stylistic flair with lots of functionality.
Common Applications
Trousers, Workwear, Suits, Bags, Uniforms
Description
Widely Used for trousers and sometimes called Khaki
Chino fabric is a sturdy, twill weave fabric. It is generally made form 100 % cotton and dyed khaki or tan colours most commonly . But it can be done in other shades of colors too . It is mercerized to give the fabric a slight sheen. The term ‘Chinos’ can also be used to describe a pair of trousers made from Chino fabric; which have become increasingly popular in casual fashion recently.
Background
Story
Chino fabric was developed in the mid-19th century primarily to tailor uniforms for the British and French armies. From there, this fabric was incorporated into civilian wear and casual dresses. This durable and comfortable wear was perfect for soldiers and was used a lot during the last half of the 1800s. It was usually used in the hues of natural and neutral colors.
The pure-cotton fabric was later integrated with other fabrics to form sturdier fabric and cloth. It gained a lot of popularity because of its softness and breathability. Its original color is also very well admired, but it can easily be dyed because it is pure cotton.
Manufacturing
Chino pants have a more tailored and streamline look than other pants. They are unlike khaki pants in that they are never pleated and come in a wider variety of colors. Chinos also do not have extra seams like other pants. The pockets are very small and are internal as opposed to large externally shown pockets. Chinos are associated with a more put-together look because they are more similar to dress pants or slacks than more casual pants. They are shown as a more preppy style and are often used in school uniforms. But, because of their material, they can also be incorporated into more casual outfits. Chino pants are for the man that does not prefer extra bulk. For men that have a minimal aesthetic, chinos will match their style nicely. Another look that can be created with a pair of chinos is a put-together casual look that is very casual without looking frumpy. Overall, chinos are very versatile and can be used for building various outfits.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Durable
- Hard wearing
- Breathable
The Fit
The fit of a chino is a big reason that people like them so much. So many styles of men’s pants are just too baggy and do not fit well. The fabric does not hug the body and accentuates the figure of the individual wearing them. Chinos have a more tailored fit that is not too tight but highlights the lines of the body. They have straight lines that make the body look long and sleek. Chinos are great for shorter men as they are looking for a way to look a little bit taller. Chinos will lengthen your legs and create a visual line that goes up and down to help you appear taller. Also, if you are tall and slender, chinos can help to play up your strengths.
Material
The material of chinos is one of the most defining features. The original chino was created with a cotton twill fabric that is breathable and offers stretch. Cotton or cotton blend fabrics are very lightweight which makes the perfect for being outdoors or regulating your temperature in warmer weather. While many chino pants are still made of a cotton or cotton blend, nowadays, companies are engineering chino style pants with even better fabrics that increase functionality and durability. Baubax chino pants are made of merino wool, polyester, elastane, and bamboo.
How to Wear Chinos
The thing about chino pants is that they can be styled with virtually anything. They can be dressed up or dressed down for a more casual look. There is really no right or wrong way to style chinos. The two things that are easy to change up the look of this type of pant are your top and shoes. Both the style and color of your other items can drastically change up the look of your outfit.
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Denim
Denim is a strong cotton warp-face textile where the weft runs under two or more warp yarns. This twill weave creates a diagonal ribbon that separates it from the cotton duck. Although a denim predecessor known as dungaree was produced in India for hundreds of years, denim itself was first produced in the French city of Nemes in Serge de Nemes.
Common Applications
Denim Jackets, Denim Shirts, Jeans, Dungarees, Skirts, Sneakers, Bags, Seat Covers
Description
A popular and casual indigo-dyed fabric most commonly used to make jeans
Denim is a strong cotton fabric made using a twill weave, which creates a subtle diagonal ribbing pattern. The cotton twill fabric is warp-facing, meaning that the weft threads go under two or more warp threads, and the warp yarns are more prominent on the right side. The diagonal ribbing is what makes denim fabric different from canvas or cotton duck, which is also a sturdy woven cotton fabric.
Background
Story
Denim was first produced in the city of Nîmes in France, and was originally called the serge de Nîmes. The word denim is an English colloquialism of the French term: “de nim.”
Denim became popular in the United States during the Gold Rush in 1853, when Levi Strauss opened up a shop in San Francisco selling dry goods along with buttons, threads, and canvas for tents. He began making durable pants for miners with big pockets for storing gold. Jacob Davis was one of Strauss’s customers, and he added copper rivets to the seams and pocket corners, adding strength. David and Strauss patented the pants and Strauss began mass producing and marketing them, helping them evolve from something worn exclusively by working men to a mainstream fashion item.
Manufacturing
After cotton fibers are harvested and spun into yarn, the yarns are dyed. The jeans are often indigo-dyed, making them the classic blue color for denim. Cotton denim is woven either on a shuttle loom or a projectile loom.
1. A shuttle loom produces what’s called selvedge denim. The weft thread is passed through the warp threads in a back and forth motion, with no breaks in the weft. This creates a very smooth and sturdy selvedge edge.
2. A projectile loom produces non-selvedge denim because there is a single weft thread for every row and not one thread woven throughout. This creates a more delicate edge that needs to be sewn to keep from fraying.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Long-lasting clothes.
- Helps to retain their shape.
- Helps protect against colour fading.
- Softer clothes.
- Fast-drying.
- Easier to iron.
- Freshly scented.
Denim fabric today
Denim fabric has remained in wide use in jeans since the 1850s. No other clothing item has endured within American culture like blue jeans, which makes that pair of Levi jeans in your closet something of a heritage artifact.
Over time, American textile producers started making other apparel items out of denim, and these days, you can even purchase home decor products made with this durable and aesthetically appealing fabric. While production of blue jeans was once limited to the United States, the late 20th-century manufacturing exodus saw the majority of denim production transfer overseas.
6 Different Types of Denim
- Indigo denim: Indigo denim is achieved by dying the warp threads with indigo dye and white threads are used as the weft. As a result, most blue jeans are blue on the right side, as the fabric is warp facing, and the interior is lighter blue, almost white.
- Stretch denim: Stretch denim weaves spandex or another elastic component to give the fabric some added give and flexibility. Stretch denim is often used for skinny jeans.
- Crushed denim: This type of denim has been treated so that it has a wrinkled look.
- Acid-wash denim: This denim is treated with chlorine and a pumice stone to create a marbled look.
- Raw denim: Raw or dry denim is fabric is that is not washed after it is dyed. This creates a rougher and stiffer texture.
- Sanforized denim: This is denim that is treated so that it doesn’t shrink in the wash. This applies to almost all kinds of denim except for raw denim.
Types of twill used for denim
There are different types of twill. For denim, the most common type of twill is 3×1 right hand twill (pronounced ‘three by one’).
‘3×1’ tells you that, on the fabric’s face (i.e. its front), you have three warp yarns for every weft yarn. Technically speaking, this means denim is warp-faced. It also explains why denim has diagonal lines in the fabric, known as twill lines.
‘Right hand’ tells you that the twill lines run from right to left on the face of the fabric.
Another type of twill weave you sometimes find in denim are 2×1 twill, where you have two warp yarns for every weft yarn. More commonly, though, is 3×1 left hand twill where the twill lines run from left to right.
There’s also broken twill, which was invented to prevent the fabric from pulling in the direction of the weave, which results in ‘leg twist.’
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Oxford
The Oxford shirt has come a long way from its original roots- 19th century Scotland (not England like the name might suggest.) During this time, it was common for Scottish weaving mills to experiment with fabric structures- believe it or not, the competition was fierce in the textile world and mills had to constantly come up with new ideas.
Common Applications
Shirts, Sportswear, Bedding, Wall Hangings
Description
A casual textured shirt fabric popular among those attending prestigious universities
Oxford cloth is a type of woven dress shirt fabric , made using basket weave , employed to make dress shirts sometimes called Oxford shirts worn on casual to formal occasions .
Oxford fabric is very popular due to its characteristics and multipurpose use. Originally Oxford weave was made using primarily cotton, but nowadays many other fibres are used including Polyester, Viscose and other synthetic fibres.
Background
Story
During the early 19th century, the heart of European textile production was in Scotland. One mill (name unknown) was experimenting with new weaves. They marketed four new fabrics, which were named after the most popular universities of the day (Yale, Harvard, Cambridge & Oxford) .
Three of the weaves didn’t prove to be very popular and therefore they ceased production on those, but Oxford cloth still survives today.
Manufacturing
The Oxford fabric has great insulating properties. It can trap in a lot of air depending on its thickness and keeps one warm. Hence, it can be a great choice for winter. Oxford fabrics have fine textures and are slightly heavy in weight. Their basket type of weaving gives the fabric durable and breathable properties.
These fabrics age well and get softer with each use. They are also naturally resistant to wrinkles. Oxford fabrics dry easily after washing. They have good resistance to abrasion and chemical agents. Easy to maintain Oxford fabrics are often used with an additional coating. One such coating is polyurethane, which provides water and wind-resisting properties as well as prevents accumulation of dirt between fibers, while the other, i.e., polyvinyl chloride coating provides complete water resistance.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Great insulating properties. It could trap a lot of air depending on its thickness which keeps oxford-made clothing warm. Consequently, Oxford is a great choice for a brumous season.
- Have fine textures properties and tend to retain their shape
- Soft, Versatile, and Lustrous
- Larger weave; basket weaving provides durable and breathable properties.
- Coarse and slightly Heavy in weight.
- Age well and get softer with each use.
- Naturally resistant to wrinkles.
- Good resistance to abrasion and chemical agents.
- Washable and dry easily after washing.
- Machine-washable, easy to maintain
- No ironing is needed after going through the washing process.
- Comfortable to wear, sturdy, durable, and also long-lasting
Oxford’s Functionality
Aesthetics were the initial reason Oxford shirts took off. The simple, yet unique look Oxford fabric brought to clothing appealed to many, and the shirt initially began its life as a collared, button-down garment to pair with a suit and tie.
However, it soon became apparent that the Oxford shirt did much more than simply look nice. The fabric was much more comfortable than other stiff, starchy shirting textiles, and it was also very breathable.
Once people caught on to the Oxford’s functionality, those properties were immediately put to use. In the early 1900’s, polo players started wearing Oxford shirts, because at the time, the fabric was the best on the market for sportswear. It was also during this time that two distinct styles of the shirt emerged.
A Casual New Approach
lthough Oxford shirts faded out of fashion for polo players, it remained highly popular with people who watched the games- mainly wealthy Ivy League students. In the 1950’s, they began to approach styling the shirt in typical college student fashion: very casually.
The Oxford became the 1950’s version of college sweats. The shirt was worn untucked, with the sleeves rolled up, with shorts, etc. The look was the initial iteration of “sport casual.”
The 1960’s marked a period in which fashion began to move away from more formal attire- the Oxford was the perfect shirt for this transition. Casual yet still smart, the garment became a closet staple for men. Even President Kennedy wore them, further cementing the Oxford as a respectable sartorial decision.
Today’s Oxford
Other than popped collars of the early 2000’s, the Oxford has been considered more of a staple than a trend piece. However, today new takes on the shirt have become very trendy.
Balenciaga recently released a very feminine version that features a cinched waist, puffed sleeves, and a pussy bow collar. Collared shirts with knee-length hemlines are a popular menswear trend. Unique details such as ruffles or open sides can be seen in many stores. Despite this, it’s safe to say that the original Oxford will always be a classic.
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Seersucker
Seersucker is not a type of fabric. Seersucker refers to a style that produces a puckering effect on the surface of the fabric. If you look more closely, this can be seen as a pattern of alternating textures of smooth and coarse.
Common Applications
Suits, Shorts, Dresses, Shirts, Sportswear, Pillowcases, Curtains
Description
A breathable puckered fabric that is ideal for making summer garments
Seersucker fabric originated in India. The name comes from the phrase “shir o shakar” in Hindi, which means milk and sugar, and refers to the two textures in the fabric. Seersucker fabric was later brought to the Western world by Muslim traders. It became popular in British colonies as a material worn in warm climates. In the United States, the fabric was originally thought of as a cheap material worn by lower class citizens. When college students began to wear the fabric to make an ironic statement, it became popular among the higher classes. Seersucker suits became popular in the southern United States, as the lightweight pants and shirts made seersucker an ideal fabric for the hot Southern climate.
Background
Story
From the 1800s to the early 20th century, seersucker fabric began being used in mattresses, bedding and night clothes particularly during the summertime in Britain and the United States. Since it is a more inexpensive, durable fabric, it was also used during the Civil War in America to make sacks and pants that would hold up during the fight.
During the cowboy Old West days, a heavier weight dark blue seersucker began being used to make classic overalls, jackets, and caps of train and railroad workers.
Manufacturing
To weave fabric on a loom, two sets of yarn are needed. One set of yarn, called the “warp” yarn, is held in tension vertically on the loom. To weave fabric, a second set of yarn, called the “weft” yarn, is woven through the warp horizontally. In the past, fabric was hand-woven or made on a manual loom. Today, most fabrics are produced on computer-controlled looms.
To make most fabrics, one set of warp yarn is used, held in uniform tension. To created the crinkled stripes characteristic of seersucker fabric, a slack-tension weaving process involving two warps must be used. One warp is held under regular tension, producing a plain stripe. A second warp is held at a higher tension and produces and crinkled stripe. By weaving one warp threat slack and the other tight, the result is a puckered effect. The yarns are wound onto the warp beams in groups of 10 or 16 to create a narrow stripe. Sometimes a larger yarn may be used for the stripe to produce a more noticeable crinkle.
Expertises
Characteristic
Now that we’ve gone over some of its history, we can talk about what makes seersucker the way that it is! Seersucker fabric is light, durable, and incredibly breathable. It is woven in a way that makes the threads bunch together, giving the fabric a wrinkled appearance with it distinctive stripes as you can see below.
FABRIC USES
Nowadays, seersucker fabric is most commonly the blue-and-white stripe pattern. However, with it’s reemerging popularity it now comes in a variety of colors. Seersucker fabric can be used to make all sorts of clothing including activewear. It is commonly used to make suits, dresses, shorts, and shirts, even robes. It is versatile enough to be used in home decor for curtains and bedding. This is because of its ability to give some much-needed air circulation during warmer weather. Overall, seersucker fabric is making a comeback, especially in activewear. With the fabric giving some air circulation during an activity, it is a great fabric to keep cool in!
BENEFITS
- It is great for travel because it will not show signs of wrinkling from being packed in your bag.
- Its puckering allows ample airflow and keeps you feeling cool and fresh even on hot days.
- It is absolutely versatile and can be used for a wide range of events and purposes.
- It is more affordable than other types of fabric that are great for summer and spring.
IN CONCLUSION
Now, when someone asks you, “what is seersucker,” you know exactly how to answer! Seersucker is an amazing twist to a summer fabric classic: cotton. The advantages of using Seersucker far outweigh the minimal disadvantages. There are many ways you can utilize your seersucker garments. Since this type of fabric weave is so affordable compared with other fabric types, it will be no surprise if this soon becomes the next big trend in fashion everywhere!
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Chambray
Chambray is a type of natural fabric that is made from either linen or cotton. This type of fabric has been made for hundreds of years, and variants of chambray fabric are called cambric or batiste.
Common Applications
Shirts, Children’s Clothes, Dresses, Shorts, Sportswear, Suits, Curtains, Pillowcases
Description
A lightweight plain-weave fabric that looks similar to denim and is often used to make shirts
Chambray is a type of natural fabric that is made from either linen or cotton. This type of fabric has been made for hundreds of years, and variants of chambray fabric are called cambric or batiste.
This type of fabric is both fine and dense, and it is similar to denim in many ways. However, a different weaving pattern is used to make chambray, and as a result, this type of fabric is significantly lighter and more breathable than denim.
Background
Story
The terms “cambric” and “batiste” originally referred to a white type of linen cloth. However, cambric has also been made with silk throughout its history, and over time, most types of cambric cloth became cotton-based. In the mid-1700s, the import of French fabrics into England became illegal, which led the British to begin calling types of Indian cotton fabric cambrics or batistes.
Over time, the terms “cambric” and “chambray” became synonymous even though these words used to denote different fabrics. The first usage of the word chambray in English dates to the mid-19th century, and over time, the term “cambric” has fallen out of use, and any fabric that follows the original style developed in Cambrai is called “chambray.”
Manufacturing
The production process used to make chambray depends on the type of material that is used to make this fabric. Depending on the type of chambray, this fabric may be made from linen, cotton, or silk. However, this type of fabric is hardly ever made from linen in the modern age, and silk chambray has also gone out of style. Therefore, we’ll discuss the production process that is commonly used to manufacture the cotton yarn from which most chambray is made.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Comfort
- Durable
- Very breathable
- High moisture-wicking abilities
- Low stretchability
- Less prone to pilling
How Chambray Fabric Is Used
Over the years, chambray has been used for all sorts of different garments. As we have already touched upon, many people use it for light summer wears such as shorts, skirts, tops and dresses. However, chambray is most frequently used for shirt fabric or button-down shirts that come with long sleeves and collars, so-called “Oxford” shirts. Some other uses for chambray fabric include quilting or bedding, and even other home furnishing items such as curtains, pillow cases, tablecloths, placemats and upholstery.
How Do I Wear Chambray?
Here, we’re going to talk mainly about how to style your chambray shirts. Chambray shirts are back, trending like we haven’t seen since the 90s! Of course, they never really went “out” of style, because they are a classic piece, but we believe they will be a must-have for the next couple of seasons at least. There are new ways to mix and style a chambray shirt that the 90s never even considered, and we can help you explore them.
Types of Chambray
There is only one type of chambray fabric, but there are a couple of terms that are used to refer to fabrics like chambray that should be clarified:
- Chambray: This term refers to any type of fabric that is woven in the traditional chambray style.
- Cambric: This type of fabric has a similar weave to chambray, but it is somewhat lighter and smoother.
- Batiste: This term is derived from the surname “Baptiste,” which is believed to be the name of the weaver who created chambray fabric in the 14th century. Baptiste fabric is identical to cambric fabric.
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Broadcloth
Broadcloth is a medium-weight, unbalanced plain weave fabric with fine ribs. It is woven tightly, resulting in its characteristic luster and smooth appearance. It is often used to make shirts, skirts, and blouses. It’s also used by crafters as one of the most popular fabrics for quilting.
Common Applications
Shirts, Dresses, Skirts, Children’s clothes, Pajamas, Bedding
Description
A lightweight, unfinished fabric that is mostly a solid color
Broadcloth is a very popular type of dress shirt fabric. Broadcloth and Poplin are essentially the same type of fabric. Broadcloth is a very lightweight, smooth, flat looking fabric, with no pattern in the weave of the threads. It is similar in quality to pinpoint fabric, but has less texture. This usually means it is slightly more transparent and not as shiny as the pinpoint fabric. Broadcloth fabric comes in a variety of thread counts, ranging from 50 singles to over 140 doubles.
Background
Story
Historically, broadcloth was made of wool. This material was woven wider than its required width and then worked over in hot soapy water by trip hammers until it shrinks to its required width. This milling process aimed to make the material dense by drawing the yarns closer together. The loom could not achieve this tightly-woven consistency. Also, during this felting process, the different fibers of the wool were bound together, creating a thick, blind face cloth. The resulting fabric was highly resistant to the weather, had a stiff drape and its edges could be cut with no need for hemming.
Manufacturing
Broadcloth can be made of different materials but perhaps, the most used materials are wool and cotton. Silk, polyester, and rayon are also used in making broadcloth fabrics. But synthetic fibers are not usually used in making this fabric. This is because they do not give the same results as wool and cotton fibers. Natural fibers produce the best broadcloth fabric. However, broadcloth make from other blends are popularly used for dresses and shirts than for any other purpose.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Durable and strong
- Cool, lightweight
- Versatile
- Soft to touch
- Lustrous face
- Subtle sheen
- Comfortable
- Delight to print on
- Doesn’t wrinkle easy
- Doesn’t stain easy
- Water resistant
WHAT IS BROADCLOTH VS COTTON?
Cotton broadcloth bears the same characteristics as cotton, but not so the broadcloth made from other fiber contents. The simple difference between cotton and broadcloth is that the former is a fabric made by weaving cotton fibers, while the latter is made from woven cotton and might contain other blends like silk, rayon, polyester, and wool. Broadcloth is usually considered a medium-weight fabric.
What is Broadcloth Used For?
You can find this material used in dresses, shirts, pajamas, lingerie, and similar clothing items but the main uses for this fabric is not for fashion. Usually, furniture and cars get a broad application of this material.
The reason for its use as upholstery and car seat fabric is because it is a dense material and can be very thick. It endures heavy traffic areas with ease and if found in good quality, it should last for decades.
If you need heavy duty casual wear clothing, then this is the material that you should turn to first. Denim has its place but it is not as colorful or has the designs that broadcloth has.
Cotton Broadcloth vs Poplin
While some people do use both terms interchangeably there are numerous differences between the two styles of fabric. Broadcloth can be given a rib to mimic poplin, yet poplin’s ribs provide strength as well as its corded look.
Then poplin is often made with a silk warp and a worsted yarn for the weft part of the weave. Broadcloth has a dense weave which helps make it a durable fabric to wear or use and both materials are used in furniture applications as well.
There is some discussion about which fabric is smoother of the two with some people saying that poplin is smoother than broadcloth. The latter is softer and a bit thicker than poplin is.
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Poplin
If you’ve ever asked yourself about the meaning of ‘what is poplin fabric‘ then you’re in the right place. You’ve probably, most definitely, worn some variation of poplin, whether it’s 100% cotton poplin or a cotton-poly blend. Whilst traditionally it was primarily used for commonplace attire, it now has a place both in your everyday wardrobe and haute couture fashion.
Common Applications
Dresses, Shirts, Trousers, Sportswear, Pajamas, Seatcover
Description
A tightly woven, finely ribbed broadcloth-like fabric often used for shirting
If you’ve ever asked yourself about the meaning of ‘what is poplin fabric‘ then you’re in the right place. You’ve probably, most definitely, worn some variation of poplin, whether it’s 100% cotton poplin or a cotton-poly blend. Whilst traditionally it was primarily used for commonplace attire, it now has a place both in your everyday wardrobe and haute couture fashion. Its popularity is hardly surprising, favoured for its strong, durable nature but soft, lustrous surface. It’s basically a solid, all-rounder fabric that can’t really do any wrong.
Background
Story
During the 15th century, the word poplin was derived from the fabric papelino which was created at Avignon, France. The name was taken from the Papal residence from where it was initially produced. Poplin became famous in the 20th century when it was used to make winter outfits.
In World War II, Military personnel of Britain, as well as the U.S., used poplin as their main fabric to make their uniforms. It helped soldiers to stay cool when needed, however, it was durable to endure harsh elements.
Manufacturing
Poplin fabric is characterised by its distinctive ribbed texture and tightly closed weave. This gives the fabric the lustre that we all love. Traditionally poplin was a plain weave constructed using fine silk warp yarns, filled in with a heavier wool yarn. This is how it gets the classic ribbed texture.
Today, poplin fabric is primarily made from 100% real cotton, making it lightweight but still retaining the strength. Other variations include wool, silk, satin, rayon or a polyblend fabric, but the basic concept remains the same; 2 yarns of different thicknesses in a plain weave. If you like having the best of both worlds, poplin is thin and cool with an easy drape, yet simultaneously sturdy and tough.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Durable and strong
- Cool, lightweight
- Versatile
- Soft to touch
- Lustrous face
- Subtle sheen
- Comfortable
- Delight to print on
- Doesn’t wrinkle easy
- Doesn’t stain easy
- Water resistant
The Origins of Poplin Fabric
Poplin has always been incredibly popular. This is not surprising given that it’s soft to touch, durable and has a smooth, lustrous surface. Back in the 15th Century, poplin was used for winter attire, and was made using silk and wool. The actual word ‘poplin’ derives from ‘papelaine’, and is based on the (now obsolete) French papal town of Avignon.
The fabric was extremely commonplace, and wasn’t deemed luxurious despite being woven with real silk. In Louisa May’s novel ‘Little Women’, two sisters were described as being full of regret for attending a ball in their best poplin dresses, instead of pure silk.
What Is Poplin Fabric Used For?
Poplin is an extremely versatile fabric and can be used for a range of different items. From apparel to home décor, this adaptable fabric can be found everywhere.
The most common use is clothing. It’s an ideal fabric for shirts, dresses, sportswear, and even trench coats—particularly summer weight apparel. Poly-cotton poplin is incredibly popular as a material for uniforms. The weave of the poplin combined with both cotton and polyester properties makes garments easy to care for, durable, and long-lasting. This is why it’s the fabric of choice when it comes to comfort and wearability.
Broadcloth vs Poplin: What Is the Difference?
Broadcloth has a more robust, sturdy texture than poplin because it is woven with thicker warp and weft threads. Unlike poplin, both the warp and weft threads are usually the same fiber content and therefore, the same size throughout. The fabric is a medium-weight, tightly woven material with a crisp feel that is prone to wrinkling. It’s a slightly heavier fabric than poplin making it ideal for cooler climates.
Poplin is a lightweight fabric that combines fine warp threads with thicker weft yarns. Poplin threads can be a mixture of fibers, cotton and polyester is a popular combination. The result is a soft, strong fabric ideal for summer garments. Its lightness gives both drape and a slightly translucent finish to clothing. Poplin, in contrast to broadcloth, is both easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles.
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Lawn
Description
A silky, smooth, and high thread-count fabric that is lighter poplin
Lawn cloth or lawn is a fine plain weave textile, made with fine combed cotton. Terms also used include batiste and nainsook. Originally the name applied to plain weave linen, and linen lawn is also called “handkerchief linen”. The term lawn is also used in the textile industry to refer to a type of starched crisp finish given to a cloth product. The finish can be applied to a variety of fine fabrics, prints or plain.
Background
Story
The name “lawn cloth” comes from the French city of Laon, which was where this textile was first woven. At first, lawn cloth was primarily made with linen, which was more abundant in Europe at the time. As cotton imports from India became more commonplace, however, weavers of lawn cloth gradually made the shift to this alternative textile material.
Manufacturing
Lawn cloth is made using standard plain-weave production methods. Textile producers can make plain-weave garments using conventional methods that have been around for centuries, but in most cases, lawn cloth is mass-produced in textile factories using mechanized looms.
Since lawn cloth usually consists of cotton fibers these days, this fabric’s production process begins in cotton cultivation fields. Mature cotton bolls are separated from their seeds, and the resulting fibers are either carded or combed before they are spun into yarn.
Combing results in finer, softer fibers, but it is more expensive. While cotton fibers produced by carding are somewhat rougher, they are cheaper to produce.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lawn is a light weight plain weaved fabric.
- It is generally opaque and sheer cloth.
- It is a fabric of characteristic in between voile and organdy. It is crisper than voile and less crisper than organdy.
- It is well-known for it’s semi transparency characteristics.
How is lawn cloth fabric used?
Traditionally, lawn fabric was primarily used to make linen women’s dresses. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, for instance, lawn cloth was commonly used to make women’s commencement gowns. Even then, this fabric was referred to as “Persian lawn,” indicating how popular this French fabric had become throughout South Asia and the Middle East.
Today, it’s likely that the primary global application of lawn fabric is in the production of salwar kameez lawn suits in Pakistan and India. The demand for this fabric weave remains steady within this population, and lawn suits have become an inextricable component of Pakistani culture.
Where is lawn cloth fabric produced?
India is currently the world’s largest producer of cotton fiber, but Pakistan appears to be the biggest global producer of finished lawn fabric garments. Western designers who use this fabric most likely source it from China or India, but in Pakistan, famous designers work around the clock to create each year’s beautiful lawn suit designs.
While it was the largest cotton producer and exporter for more than two decades, a recent economic downturn in China has dramatically reduced this nation’s cotton production capacity. In the aftermath of this global economic shift, the United States has risen up the ranks to become a major cotton producer and exporter once again.
Cotton Lawn Fabric Properties
Cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant. A sheer textile with a fine, high thread count, Cotton Lawn Fabric has a uniquely smooth, untextured surface, and crisp finish. Cotton Lawn is a lightweight, breathable fabric with a smooth texture. This fabric is perfect for lightweight tops, dresses, and skirts that are perfect for spring and summer. Due to the lightweight nature of the fabric, you might want to consider adding a lining to your garment.
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Lawn is a term which is derived from the word ‘LAON’ which is a city of France. Lawn fabric or cloth is a type of plain weave fabric that is commonly made with cotton. But lawn was originally manufactured from linen. Lawn is lightweight, breathable fabric with a smooth texture.
Common Applications
Dresses, Blouses, Shirts, Underwear, Lingerie, Pajamas, Handkerchiefs, Baby clothes
Voile
Voile fabric is an airy and sheer material that is considered to be the perfect summer fabric. Cotton or a cotton blend is frequently used in its production. In comparison to other cotton fabrics, its thread count is much greater. Because of this, the cloth feels extremely smooth and luxurious to the touch.
Common Applications
Lingerie, Summer clothing, Children’s clothing, Linings, Mosquito netting, Pillowcases, Curtains
Description
The most popular fiber in the world
Cotton is a seed fiber grown as a protective case around the seed of the cotton plant. Known to be the most popular natural fiber in the world, it is soft and fluffy to the touch and is usually off-white in color.
Background
Story
The fabric’s origins can be traced back to France, by the French word for ‘well.” Voile is where the cloth was first used. Consequently, the fabric got its name from this word. Despite its popularity in tailoring, it is typically employed in various bridal applications.
Manufacturing
The yarns used in its construction are twisted voile yarns. Voile yarns have a greater number of twists when compared to ordinary yarns.
Following the yarns’ twisting, spherical yarns are produced one by one. After that, these are turned into yarns with two plies. Two single yards are combined to produce a strong yarn, and the direction of the twist in both yards is the same. The cloth is made from this yarn by being woven.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Has tight and plain weave
- Drapes lightly
- Has a soft and silky finish
- Coarse and crisp texture
- Solid yet flexible
- A little transparent, so you have the option to add a lining
Where is Voile Fabric Made?
Most of the world’s Voile supply is produced in Asian countries like China. Most Voile fabrics can be made of cotton. China, on the other hand, is the largest producer of textiles. As a result, it is also the market leader in the Voile textile market.
Factors Affect Voile Fabric Quality
When you look to buy voile for creating various items, it is important to check for certain features:
It is usually accepted that those fabrics that have a thicker feel are better in quality as this indicates that the weight and the number of the threads per inch are higher, and therefore, more durable.
Another important thing to check is the stitching of the cloth, it is best if it is tight together, but should allow a little play if stretched.
The blend of materials used also plays a part on the quality as cotton and other natural variants are more comfortable than synthetic ones; however, they are less durable.
Dyeing and printing with Voile fabric
To some, it may come as a surprise, but Voile can be dyed and printed. Designers and buyers with specific tastes can both benefit from the method.
The fabric can be dyed depending on the composition of the material. If made using cotton or other synthetic fibers, the Rit All-Purpose Liquid Dye can be used as the best fabric dye available. It can also bear the prints of your favorite designs and patterns with ease.
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Batiste
Batiste fabric is a plain weave fabric that is semi-sheer and very lightweight. It is the softest of the opaque fabrics and is often used in making lightweight garments, bedding and lingerie. Mercerized cotton is the common fiber used to create this material.
Common Applications
Summer clothing, Baby clothes, Handkerchiefs, Lingerie, Dresses, Linings, Curtains, Bedding
Description
A smooth, featherweight opaque fabric often used for bedding
Batiste is a semi-sheer plain-weave fabric that textile manufacturers commonly use to make lightweight garments, lingerie, and bedding. This type of fabric is usually made with cotton, but some manufacturers also use polyester or lyocell. Prized for its lightweight and semi-transparent attributes, batiste is a luxury fabric despite being reasonably inexpensive.
While reasonably crisp, batiste is not as crisp as other semi-sheer cotton weaves such as organdy. This fabric has high tensile strength and durability even though it is not as heavy-duty as alternative plain-weave textiles like lawn cloth.
Background
Story
Historians consider “batiste” to be a synonym of “cambric,” which was originally a linen fabric named after the Flemish city Kambryk, now known as Cambrai. Throughout the Middle Ages, an area in northwestern Europe known as the Low Countries supplied the continent with most of its linen textiles, and cambric or batiste remained one of the most popular Low Countries textile exports for centuries.
Some sources indicate that batiste fabric takes its name from a famous 14th-century French weaver named Jean Baptiste, but there are no historical records to verify this claim. There is, however, an etymological trail that traces the fabric name “baptiste” back to the Picard dialect word “batiche,” which historians believe has been used since the early 1400s.
Manufacturing
Batiste fabric almost always contains cotton fibers, but in some cases, textile manufacturers might mix cotton with linen to make batiste. It’s also becoming more common to find batiste fabrics featuring polyester or semi-synthetic fabrics like lyocell, which may be cheaper or, in the case of lyocell, softer than cotton or linen.
Expertises
Characteristic
The characteristics of the Batiste weave; lightness, softness, smoothness, strength and durability, when combined with the attributes of Tencel®, (softer than silk, cooler than linen, and naturally anti-microbial) results in a downproof fabric that is without equal for lightness, strength and softness.
How is Batiste Fabric Made?
This is a very simple process as when it is made from cotton, the early steps from the cotton plant to the carding stage are the same as it is for other cotton fabrics. The only difference in that early process is that the manufacturers do not use carding at all when making this material.
The yarn set aside to make this material is combed first, then it is sent to the weaving stage. The weave is a simple plain method that does not provide any special characteristics to the fabric. There are occasions where linen fibers are added to the cotton yarn but usually, cotton yarn is the preferred choice of materials
What is Batiste Fabric Used for?
Batiste is a very versatile fabric and comes with a variety of uses or applications that make it a popular material to use. Its lightweight makes it perfect for hot weather clothing and bedding as does its breathability factor.
However, that breathing ability may be a bit limited when synthetic or semi-synthetic fibers are used. Then one major use for this material will be handkerchiefs and those little items certainly come in handy at any time of the year.
Next, you will find lingerie as a popular application. Its lightweight, soft feel makes this material ideal for those looking for comfort without adding bulk or weight to their daily attire.
Batiste Fabric vs Cotton Difference
The differences you may see or feel with different types of batiste materials and when comparing it to cotton will depend on the weave style as well as the fibers used to create that particular batiste version.
When compared to regular cotton, the cotton version of this material can be quite silky and soft whereas regular cotton will not have the same feel to it. Plus the drape may be a bit different with the batiste material having the better drape.
Other differences would come in when this fabric is made with synthetic or a blend of synthetic fibers. The feel may not be as silky but more artificial than natural cotton would feel. But this version of batiste may resist wrinkling, pilling, and shrinking.
When made from synthetics the fabric may be more durable than cotton is but you may have to watch your handling of the material when it comes to laundry time. It will depend on how the material is made as while it is still cotton, the processing may be different from some cotton materials.
That processing will create differences like making batiste lighter in weight than regular cotton is.
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Organza
Apart from silk, synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester can also be used to make organza. Compared to the original silk, synthetic fabrics are a bit more durable. However, the fabric itself is extremely delicate and is easily prone to tears and frays.
Common Applications
Gowns, Bridalwear, Lingerie, Veils, Gift bags, Curtains, Home Decor
Description
A supportive, sheer, lightweight fabric often used for bridal dresses
Organza is a lightweight, sheer, plain-woven fabric that was originally made from silk.
The material can also be made from synthetic fibers, primarily polyester and nylon. Synthetic fabrics are slightly more durable, but the fabric is very delicate and prone to frays and tears.
Organza is also characterized by very small holes throughout the fabric, which are the spaces between the warp and weft thread in the plain-weave pattern. The quality of organza is defined as the number of holes per inch—more holes indicate better quality organza. Organza is extremely popular for wedding gowns and evening wear, as it has a shimmery and translucent quality which creates decadent silhouettes.
Background
Story
Like most silk fabric, silk organza fabric originated in China, where silk was first cultivated. Organza was traded along the Silk Road, the trading route from China to Europe, and production spread around the world.
China remains the biggest producer and exporter of organza today. There are several organza weaving mills along the Yangtze River, particularly in Zhejiang province. India is also a large exporter of organza, where a stiffer type of organza is produced in the Bangalore region. France and Italy produce very high-quality organza.
Manufacturing
The weaving process for organza is very complicated and precise and, as a result, most organza is still woven by hand. It can be made by machine, but machine-made organza is compromised in quality.
Twisting the yarn. After the filament fibers—long, continuous strands of either silk or synthetic material—are produced, two single fibers are twisted tightly in opposite directions to form the yarn.
Treating with acid. Before the yarns are woven into a fabric, they are combed and treated with acid. This increases the material’s stiffness, an important quality of organza. Sometimes, synthetic fibers don’t need to be treated this way, as they are often naturally stiff.
Weaving. The yarns are woven together using the plain weave method, where the warp and weft threads are woven over and under each other in an equal ratio forming a criss-cross pattern.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Transparency
- Thinness
- Sheerness
- Stiffness
Extra Long Staple
Organza is a fixture in the formal wear arena, but it has many uses in home design and costuming as well.
Evening wear. Organza is often layered over more opaque fabrics like satin or silk to create an added dimension and shine for evening gowns, prom dresses, and more. Since the fabric is transparent, designers can use many layers of organza to create a sculptural dimension. Organza is also used as an overlay for shawls or dresses.
Bridal gowns. Organza is used for bridal wear, including wedding gowns and bridesmaid dresses, as the shiny, smooth material creates soft, full silhouettes thanks to the stiff drape and structure. The fabric is also often used for bridal veils.
Home decor. Organza is a very decorative fabric, and it is often used for sheer curtains and table runners. It can also be used for event decoration, like accessories for seating, aisle runners, and wedding arches.
Bags. Organza bags are popular for small, drawstring pouches to carry accessories like earrings and necklaces.
Costumes. Organza is very popular for stage costuming, particularly dance outfits like tutus and skirts thanks to the beautiful flow and the way they catch the stage lighting.
How Is Organza Fabric Used?
One of the most common applications of Organza in the West is in wedding dresses. These types of dresses often have numerous folds and fluffy areas that are created with sheer fabrics, and organza is a premier choice for these areas. In most cases, organza for wedding dresses is dyed bright white, but it may also be dyed in a number of other colors.
This fabric is commonly used in evening wear, which also frequently emphasizes ruffles and complex folds. One type of evening wear in which organza is especially popular is called an “overlay,” which is a type of shawl that is put on top of a dress or another type of garment. Overlays commonly bear complex patterns that are brightly colored.
Organza fabric may also be used in stage costumes, and it is commonly used in underskirts and specialty dancewear like tutus. Beyond the world of apparel, this type of fabric may also be used to make curtains, lampshades, or other forms of interior decor.
Where Is Organza Fabric Produced?
Being a silk fabric, the predominant area of manufacture for organza used to be East Asia. Various cultures in modern-day India and China produced silk thousands of years ago, and this fabric is still widely produced in these Asian nations. Silk was seen as such a valuable commodity that an entire trading route sprang up due to its existence, and the only organza to be found in Europe during the Middle Ages and Renaissance periods came down the Silk Road.
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Aramid
Description
An exceptionally strong fiber best known for manufacturing bulletproof vests.
Aramid is a high-performance synthetic fiber made from aromatic polyamide. There are two types of aramid – Nomex, which is chemical, electrical, and fire resistant; and Kevlar, which is extremely strong and usually gold in color. Aramid fibers can be very strong yet lightweight.
Background
Story
The name aramid is a short for “aromatic polyamide”. Aramid was first created at DuPont by Stephanie Kwolek during the 1930s. In the 1970s, it was used commercially to replace steel in racing tires.
Manufacturing
he polymer poly-metaphenylene isophthalamide is used to make meta- aramids and the polymer p-phenylene terephthalamide to make para-aramids. Because the aramids decompose before they melt they are produced by wet and dry spinning methods. Sulphuric acid is the normal solvent used in the spinning processes. In wet spinning a strong solution of the polymer, which also contains inorganic salts, is spun through a spinneret into weak acid or water. In this bath the salts leach out. In the dry spinning process the salts are more difficult to remove and this process is only used to produce the weaker meta-aramid fibres. In both processes post treatment of the fibres by additional drawing is used to optimise fibre properties. Aramid products are available as filament yarn, staple fibre or pulp. (Aramid fibers manufacturing method)
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight and stiffer than glass
- Highly tear and cut resistant with excellent ballistic properties
- Flame resistant
- Sensitive to UV
- Chemical resistant but sensitive to acids
- Non-conductive
Fiber Structure
In aramid fibers a series of synthetic polymers in which repeating units have large phenyl rings are linked together by amide groups. Amide groups (CO-NH) form strong bonds that are resistant to solvets and heat. Phenyl rings are bulky six-sided groups of carbon and hydrogen atoms that prevent polymer chains from rotating and twisting around their chemical bonds.
Advantages of aramid fibers
Aramid main advantages are high strength and low weight. Like graphite, it has slightly negative axial coefficient of thermal expansion, which means aramid laminates can be made thermally table in dimensions. Unlike graphite, it is very resistant to impact and abrasion damage. It can be made waterproof when combined with other materials like epoxy. It can be used as a composite with rubber retaining its flexibility. High tensile modulus and low breakage elongation combined with very good resistance to chemicals make it the right choice for different composite structural parts inn various applications
Conclusion
The current production of continuous aramid fibres (both low and high modulus) worldwide is estimated at about 60,000 metric tons (MT)/year, only 4% of which goes into composite applications. This represents 2,400 MT/year, compared to 40,000 MT/year of carbon and five million MT/year of glass fibre.
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Acrylic
Description
A synthetic fiber that is similar to wool but more affordable.
Acrylic fiber is made from a synthetic polymer called acrylonitrile. It is produced by reacting certain petroleum or coal-based chemicals with a variety of monomers. It has a wool-like aesthetic and can be used on its own or blended with other natural and synthetic fibers, which enhances its stretchiness, luster, and warmth.
Background
Story
Acrylic was created in 1941 by DuPont and trademarked as Orlon. However, it was not produced in large quantities commercially until the 1950s. Acrylic fabric is made in a way similar to the production of polyamide fabric (or nylon fabric) and polyester fabric.
Manufacturing
When heat and pressure (energy) is applied to the fossil fuels (petroleum, natural gas, and less commonly, coal), polymerization occurs and a plastic solution is formed. Polymerization describes when two or more molecules bind into a repetitive molecular chain. After polymerization, the plastic solution is in a viscous form. This means the solution’s state of matter is somewhere between a solid and a liquid.
Expertises
Characteristic
• Lightweight and soft Wear and tear resistant
• Retains warmth
• Prone to melt
• Pills easily and is often chemically treated Moisture wicking and fast drying
• Highly UV resistant
• Chemical resistant, stable with common bleaching agents
• Mildew and insect resistant
• Takes dye and is colorfast
• Washes easily and will not shrink like wool
• Gathers static electricity
what is acrylic fabric made of?
Once the acrylic fiber is washed, dried, and cut, it is ready to be spun into thread. The threads are then woven into fabric, with acrylic fabric as the end result. It’s common that acrylic fiber and acrylic threads be woven with other types of fiber to create what’s called a ‘blend’. This is usually done as a cost cutting measure, since synthetic fibers are often cheaper than natural fibers. So if you see a shirt advertised as a ‘cotton-blend’ or ‘wool-blend’, it isn’t just cotton or wool, there’s another fiber in the mix.
what are the properties of acrylic fabric?
Acrylic fiber closely resembles the look and feel of wool fibers. Acrylic fabric is lightweight, warm, and soft to the touch. It is thus used in place of wool or blended with sheep wool or cashmere. Common end products of acrylic fabric include sweaters, hats, socks, and knitting yarn.
Like polyester and nylon, acrylic fabric is hydrophobic – meaning it repels water. This can lead to bacteria growth in the fabric which may compromise the structure and cause odor. It also means that acrylic fabric is more likely to create static electricity and cling. Acrylic fabric is also flammable and can be extremely difficult to extinguish, whereas wool is extremely difficult to light.
Compare to natural fiber yarn
Acrylic fiber based knitting yarns are often available at lower prices than natural fiber yarns. However, they lack some of the desirable properties offered by natural fibers. Unfortunately, acrylic yarns are not as soft as natural fiber yarns and do not have the ability to felt. Acrylic fiber yarns can also cause discomfort to the knitter, because the yarn does not have give. When finishing a garment, acrylic yarn requires heat to let the final product set (or relax). With these properties in consideration, natural fiber yarns made with wool, cotton, linen, or silk, are a worthy investment.
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Spandex
Description
An incredibly stretchy fiber that is a key component of elastic fabrics.
Spandex, also known as elastane, is segmented polyurethane, and a by-product of petroleum. It is a white-colored synthetic fiber made to provide elasticity. The fiber can stretch to over 500% of its length and recover to its original length immediately. It is often blended with other fibers to offer additional stretch.
Background
Story
Spandex was developed in 1959 by DuPont textile scientist Joseph C. Shivers as a substitute for rubber. Originally called Fiber K, DuPont chose the trade name Lycra@ to distinguish its brand of spandex fiber. It was totally revolutionary, and was quickly incorporated into swimwear, undergarments, and other clothing.
Manufacturing
To begin the spandex fabric production process, a substance called macroglycol is mixed with a diisocyanate monomer under specific heat and pressure. The temperature and pressure conditions must be exact to produce the desired results, and the macroglycol and diisocyanate monomer must also be in a ratio approximate to 1:2.
If the right conditions are applied, a substance called a prepolymer is formed, and this substance is then used in the remainder of the production process. Once it has formed, the prepolymer is exposed to diamine acid, and a chemical reaction called chain extrusion reaction is initiated.
Expertises
Characteristic
• Lightweight, smooth and soft
• Relatively weak as a fiber, but stronger and more durable than rubber
• Excellent elasticity
• Pill resistant
• Oil and perspiration resistant
• Mildew and insect resistant
• Takes dye well
• Wrinkle resistant
• Abrasion resistant
• Anti-static
How Is Spandex Fabric Used?
Spandex fabric is used in any consumer or industrial application in which elasticity is desired. Since its inception, this type of fabric has become more and more popular, and these days, it is present in thousands of different types of garments, and it is used by consumers all over the world.
In some cases, pure spandex fabric may be used to make incredibly stretchy or fully form-fitting garments. However, this fabric is relatively expensive, which means that these types of garments are quite costly to the consumers of professionals who use them. Instead, it’s much more common to see spandex fabric woven into other types of textiles.
Where Is Spandex Fabric Produced?
Spandex fabric is made by many different international corporations. Some of these corporations, such as DuPont , have factories in dozens of different countries, but others may be localized to one country in particular.
The majority of the world’s spandex manufacturing plants are located in China. In the past, most of this fabric was produced in the United States, but reduced labor costs have driven the manufacture of many different types of textiles to China over the last few decades.
Conclusion
The fiber discuss in this assignment which resemble rubber in that they have high extensibility and highly reactive forces which derive from their chemical nature. Natural polymers are usually better than we make ourselves and the development of spandex yarns may well spurs to rubber technologist to new achievement; in the past they have not had very much competition from other snap back fibers.
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Olefin
Description
A strong, stain-resistant fiber often used for wallpaper
Olefin synthetic fibers are made from polyolefin a term for colorless plastics that feel waxy and oily. The two most important strands are called polyethylene and polypropylene, with polypropylene being more commonly used in the textile industry.
Background
Story
Olefin fibers were first produced in Italy during 1957 by Nobel Prize winners Giulio Natta and Karl Ziegler, to increase the number of textile applications. The United States also started producing olefin in 1960.
Manufacturing
Polypropylene is made from the gas propylene. Propylene is a colorless gas with faint petroleum-like odor. It is a co-product of ethylene production through the steam cracking of hydrocarbons or oil production. I know what you’re thinking… “How can olefin be more sustainable than cotton or silk while being involved with gas and oil production?”
Expertises
Characteristic
- Polyethylene (PE) i t; genera”‘/ lighter
- Polyethylene (PE) i3 rnore stable in ternperature
- Durable
- Buoyant, rnaking it ideal for highperformance apparel
- Low melting temperature, especially polyethylene
- Pill resistant
- Moisture wicking and fast drying
- Stain resistant
- Cannot be dyed
- Lowest static among synthetic fiber
- Non-biodegradable
Is Polypopylene Fabric Safe?
Olefin is inherently safe, but how we treat the olefin is the true measure of health and environmental consciousness.
Chemicals like Polyfluorinated Compounds (PFC’s) are sprayed on furniture, rugs, and apparel to repel water and stains. Anti-microbials and fire retardants are also used but have been found by the Green Science Policy Institute to have health effects. Revolution Performance Fabrics only uses Olefin and the weave design to repel stains. Olefin is chemically stain resistant so there is zero need for water repelling chemicals and antimicrobials that can affect your health. Below are some of the benefits of Revolution Performance Fabrics that are 100% made of olefin.
It’s the Eco-Friendly Choice
One of the biggest benefits of olefin is how eco-friendly it is. Compared to cotton, which is grown, or wool, which is sheered from sheep, the chemical process used to create olefin may sound like the furthest thing from eco-friendly.
But the reality is that the production process involves very little by-product. This means that the ingredients used to create the fabric are completely used. Nothing needs to be thrown away, recycled, or processed.
Incredible Strength
The thick weave and strength of the chemical fibres used to make olefin allow it to be incredibly durable fabric.
Compared to other, weaker natural fabrics or those with a loose weave, olefin can be used to create products that need to be tough. This includes things like outdoor rugs, automotive interior fabrics, and even wall coverings.
The strength of olefin fabric also means that the products it is used to make can hold up to years of use. This makes it a great choice for products like outdoor bean bag chairs or patio cushions, especially in hotel environments where they see constant, heavy use.
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Horse Hair
Horsehair fabric, or haircloth, stiff and with an open weave, is usually made with lengthwise yarns of another fibre, such as cotton, and long, crosswise yarns of horsehair. It is used as interlining or stiffening for tailored garments and millinery but is gradually being replaced for such purposes by materials of synthetic fibres.
Description
A long, coarse hair obtained from the manes and tails of horses.
Horse hair is an animal-protein fiber obtained from the manes and tails of horses. Hair from the mane is softer, while hair from the tail is coarser. Most horsehair comes from slaughtered horses, and is often black and lustrous.
Background
Story
The first documented use of horsehair was recorded in Switzerland during the 9th century as a blueprint plan, although some have said Spaniards were the first to use horsehair for textiles during the 8th century. It was used as interlining or stiffening for tailored garments and millinery, and became a popular upholstery and covering fabric for furniture during the
19th century. Horsehair made interlining
Manufacturing
Horsehair fabric, or haircloth, stiff and with an open weave, is usually made with lengthwise yarns of another fibre, such as cotton, and long, crosswise yarns of horsehair. It is used as interlining or stiffening for tailored garments and millinery but is gradually being replaced for such purposes by materials of synthetic fibres. The fabric, at one time made into shirts worn by religious penitents, became a popular upholstery material in the 19th century. Horsehair for the textile industry is exported chiefly by Argentina and Canada; other producers include Mongolia, China, and Australia.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Breathable and wearable all year round
- Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- Takes dye well but prone to discolor after wash
- Not stable and tends to shrink
- Prone to wrinkle
- Does not gather static electricity
Extra Long Staple
Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt are cottons with the highest qualities. They are all extra-long staple and very soft to the touch.
Sustainable Options
Organic cotton and color cotton are some sustainable options that have been promoted to replace conventional cotton, with fewer synthetic agricultural chemicals and less water usage.
Application
The cotton yarn can be used for weaving and knitting. Cotton is the cooling fiber suitable to be used for making shirt, blouse, dress, T-shirt, Pants. Cotton also can be used for color dyed.
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Silk
Silk is one of the oldest fibers known by humankind. It is a natural protein fiber, which has been used in textile manufacture for at least 5,000 years. About 90% of commercial silk fibers employed in the textile industry come from Lepidopteran silkworms from the Bombycidae family. In the textile industry, it is commonly referred to “mulberry silk”.
Description
Silk is one of the oldest fibers known by humankind.
Silk is a very special natural fiber. Textile-used silk was often obtained from moth caterpillars. Long considered a luxury fiber, it is sometimes referred to as the “queen of fabrics”. Silk is the only natural filament fiber and is soft, lustrous, shiny, and smooth to the touch.
Background
Story
According to archeological evidence, silk has been used for at least 5000 years. According to Chinese legend, Empress Hsi Ling Shi, wife of the Yellow Emperor, sat under a mulberry tree and discovered that silkworm cocoons were made of a delicate thread. The Empress then learned how to make luxurious fabric by spinning the silk. It became very popular during the Han Dynasty, where silk became a currency that was traded.
Manufacturing
Silk can be produced by several insects, but the most common one is from caterpillar. Female moths lay 200-300 eggs over a couple of days and they grow from 2mm to 70mm in length during 25-30 days of non-stop eating. The silkworm starts to spin a cocoon of silk when it is fully grown, and one
cocoon creates almost a mile of filament.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Smooth and drapes with a graceful flow
- One of the strongest natural fibers -stronger than cotton and linen
- Poor conductor of heat
- High elasticity
- Absorbs and releases moisture quickly
- Fades and weakens under continuous sunlight and sweat
- Sheds dust and dirt easily
- Takes dyes very well, and solid or vivid colors can be achieved
- Tends to shrink
- Wrinkle resistant
- Easily gathers static electricity
Growth
According to Chinese legend, around 2700 B.C. Empress Hsi Ling Shi [Sigh-Ling-She] sat under a mulberry tree drinking tea. She began playing with a silkworm cocoon and discovered it was made of a delicate thread. The Empress learned to spin the silk and to make luxurious fabric.
Archeological evidence indicates that silk production may have begun as early as 5000BC – that’s more than seven thousand years ago. Sericulture is the raising of silkworms and the production of silk. The ancient Chinese kept the details of sericulture a secret – a secret coveted by the rest of the world. Today silk is produced mostly in China, India, and Japan.
Silkworms, which are really caterpillars, are fed mulberry leaves, mulberry leaves, and only mulberry leaves. They never stop eating. That means feedings every four hours.
Harvesting
After 35 days of eating, the silkworm spins a cocoon of silk. It creates nearly a mile of filament! One can by hand, boil the cocoons, pick out the end of a silk filament, and thread it onto a reel. This work may also be done in a manufacturing plant. Several filaments are combined and wrapped on a reel creating a yarn.
Properties & Uses
The length of the silk is important in creating high-quality fabric. Long fibers make long, smooth surfaces, which is why silk reflects light and has that special luster we value. But, short fibers and broken fibers may also be spun to create lower quality fabrics.
For all its delicacy, silk is as strong as the wire of equal thickness. However, it deteriorates over time. As silk ages, it becomes dry and brittle and will literally fall to pieces in one’s hands. Much like shattered glass, silk will develop fissures, crumble, and fall off in chunks. Feeding all those hungry caterpillars is expensive – so silk fabric is expensive and used primarily in high-end apparel and furnishings.
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Angora
Angora wool comes from the fur of Angora rabbits. The fiber has a very thin, fine diameter and has a halo-like effect of fur around each strand, which creates a shiny quality on any items made with Angora.
Description
A soft animal fiber that has a floaty and fluffy feel.
Angora is a fine and soft fiber of the Angora rabbit, which has very long and flexible hair. Various colors are available, including pure white, gray, brown, and black. Garments knitted from Angora fiber will feel like fur. It is also often blended with wool to enhance its elasticity.
Background
Story
Angora wool comes from the fur of Angora rabbits. The fiber has a very thin, fine diameter and has a halo-like effect of fur around each strand, which creates a shiny quality on any items made with Angora. The halo essentially refers to the yarn’s fluffiness, so each strand in a finished product looks like it has a layer of fluff surrounding it. Angora is soft and luxurious like cashmere or alpaca, and it is often blended with other types of wool to add softness and its signature halo.
Manufacturing
There are five different Angora rabbit breeds: English, French, German, Satin, and Giant. Each breed of Angora rabbit produces a slightly different type of wool.
- English Angora: English Angora is the smallest of the angora rabbit breeds, and it has extremely fine guard hairs, which are generally coarser hairs that protect the animals coat. Guard hairs aren’t generally used for the final textile.
- French Angora: French Angora rabbits have thicker guard hairs, which means their undercoat is more woolly, but since they molt naturally, the fibers can be easily plucked around the guard hairs. The animal has a great halo fur, meaning it has extra fluff, and French Angora’s fur is great for hand spinners as a result.
- Satin Angora: The Satin Angora doesn’t produce as much wool as the French and English Angora, but the coat is very shiny, and the fiber is great for spinning.
- Giant Angora: the Giant Angora is a biggest Angora, and it produces the most fiber per year. However, the Giant Angora doesn’t naturally molt so its fur must be shorn.
- German Angora: German Angoras are very similar to the Giant Angoras, in that they produce a large volume of wool and do not naturally molt.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Breathable and wearable all year round
- Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- Takes dye well but prone to discolor after wash
- Not stable and tends to shrink
- Prone to wrinkle
- Does not gather static electricity
How Is Angora Wool Produced?
Angora rabbits molt three or four times a year, and Angora wool is gathered during moulting season. Harvesting Angora involves plucking or shearing the rabbits on Angora farms. Plucking is a superior technique, as it ensures fewer guard hairs are retrieved, which add roughness to the coat. Also, the fur is not as matted when plucked; however it’s a very time consuming process so some farmers resort to shearing.
The rabbits need to be groomed once or twice a week so matting and felting doesn’t occur.
What Are the Uses for Angora Wool?
Angora is a gorgeous decorative textile that creates a beautiful effect in garments and home items.
Knitwear. Angora wool is a favorite fiber for knitwear, as it adds its luxurious halo effect, or fluffy layer, to the garment or accessory. From an angora sweater to mittens, knitters prefer working with angora wool because it adds a beautiful effect with its fluffy halo. However, since angora does not have a lot of elasticity, it is generally mixed with other fibers, like alpaca or sheep’s wool, to give added stretch and bulk.
Home decor. Angora can also be used for home decorations, from throw pillows to blankets. The fiber is typically only used for decorative items and incorporated with other fibers, as angora is very expensive.
What Is the Difference Between Angora Wool and Mohair
The main difference between mohair and Angora is Angora wool comes from the Angora rabbit, while mohair wool comes from the Angora goat. Both are very strong and resilient with a silky and soft nature.
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VICUÑA
Vicuna is known around the world as the finest, softest, and lightest natural fiber available. In its undyed version, the fabric has a golden-brown appearance, which is why it is often called the “Gold of the Andes”.
Description
A rare, valuable, and delicate fiber made from vicuña.
The Vicuna, a camelid cousin of the alpaca, is a small and graceful animal that roams wild in the Andean mountains at altitudes between 3,200 and 4,800 meters. The natural fibers of the vicuna are considered the rarest in the world due to the strict conservation restrictions on the shearing process.
Background
Story
In the 1960s due to indiscriminate hunting and poaching the Vicuna was close to extinction. Thankfully, the Peruvian government, together with UNESCO, began a series of strategies and agreements that allowed the creation of programs geared toward the protection and conservation of the species. At the same time, these programs allowed for the sustainable commercialization of Vicuna fiber, through educating the Andean shepherds about the care and importance of Vicunas for the environment as well as their livelihood.
Manufacturing
Vicuna fibers are collected with minimal damage to the animal. This is usually done by hand shearing the llamas, which is done by the native growers. The fibers are then processed without the use of chemicals, meaning the industrial impact on the environment is minimized.
The fabric is produced in a way that is very similar to wool with the fibers being combed and carded to remove the imperfections before the yarns are spun and ultimately woven or knitted into fabrics. This animal can only be shorn once every three years so the fibers are very rare.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Softer and more delicate than cashmere
- Retains warmth
- Does not pill easily
- Able to shed moisture and dries quickly
- Flame resistant
- Hypoallergenic
- Easily damaged when dyed
- Biodegradable
How Vicuna fabric is made?
Vicuna fabric is the fiber from the llama which is native to the Andes Mountains of South America. It is more expensive and rarer than Cashmere and it a very luxurious fabric. It comes from the smallest and most graceful member of the llama family that has an orange coat with white patches.
In Incan time this Vicuna fabric was known as ‘Fabric of the gods’ and only royalty were permitted to wear it. Any commoners that wore it were put to death.
Why Vicuna Is So Special
Vicunas have the finest coat of any known animal, about twice as fine as Cashmere. In its purest state, the wool is undyed, maintaining its rich, golden color. The animals can only be shorn every three years, and after each shearing, they are tagged and released into the wild again.
Due to its fine fibers, Vicuna is extremely light and soft, yet warm and insulating. Each Vicuna garment is a piece of art and a true pleasure to wear.
Why knowing the vicuña is important
Vicuña is world renowned for its incredibly low average fiber diameter (AFD), 12.5 microns. It is by far the finest and most consistent of all camelid fibers. It is valued at between $400 and $600 per kilogram (2.2 lbs), which is significantly higher than any other specialty fiber. Before one can begin figuring ways to import vicuñas it is important to realize that the vicuña is a wild animal that is protected by numerous international treaties that specifically forbid exportation. The significance of introducing the vicuña to this discussion and understanding more about its fleece has to do with its close relationship with the alpaca.
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Qiviut
The muskoxen may look like cows or bison, but they’re more related to goats. Native to Alaska, they have spread to the arctic regions of Canada and Greenland.
Description
A rare, lightweight, and soft underwool fiber that is one of the finest natural fibers.
Qiviut is the underneath wool fiber of the muskox, and is usually grayish-brown in color. For better quality, it can be spun into pure yarn or blended with merino, alpaca, cashmere, or silk. The price of qiviut fiber is high since its production volume is very limited.
Background
Story
Qiviut, meaning “muskox”, originated in North America and Greenland. It was overhunted and reintroduced to Alaska in 1935. Qiviut fiber was first spun by an economics teacher in Alaska during the 1930s
Manufacturing
Collecting raw qiviut is relatively easy as the muskox will naturally shed their soft downy underwool in summer. This often happens in April and May. Clumps of hair tend to fall off the body of the animals.
One way to collect qiviut from free-ranging muskox involves picking it from objects or bushes that the animal has rubbed against. This method, while cheap, is not very effective since exposure and other factors can reduce the fibers’ quality. The Inuit of Nunivak Island in Alaska collect this naturally shed wool and spin it by hand.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Soft
- Durable
- 8 times warmer than wool
- Drier than wool; contains about 7% oils
- Hypoallergenic, does not irritate skin
- Takes dye well
- Does not shrink or felt
- Odorless
- Machine washable
Processing of Qiviut
Collecting raw qiviut is relatively easy as the muskox will naturally shed their soft downy underwool in summer. This often happens in April and May. Clumps of hair tend to fall off the body of the animals.
One way to collect qiviut from free-ranging muskox involves picking it from objects or bushes that the animal has rubbed against. This method, while cheap, is not very effective since exposure and other factors can reduce the fibers’ quality. The Inuit of Nunivak Island in Alaska collect this naturally shed wool and spin it by hand.
Animal Welfare
Extracting the Qiviut wool is by no means painful or unpleasant for the musk ox. It is neither sheared, nor does the animal have to be fixed in any way. Instead, the fine undercoat is combed out simply and gently. The loss of hair has no disadvantages for the musk ox.
Price of Qiviut
Qiviut is expensive. This is not surprising as it’s a rare fiber with unique qualities. Another reason is the elaborate processing of the fiber – once a year, this process is necessary to collect about 7 pounds of Qiviut wool per animal.
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Cotton
Cotton, one of the world’s leading agricultural crops, is plentiful and economically produced, making cotton products relatively inexpensive. The fibres can be made into a wide variety of fabrics ranging from lightweight voiles and laces to heavy sailcloths and thick-piled velveteens, suitable for a great variety of wearing apparel, home furnishings, and industrial uses.
Description
The most popular fiber in the world
Cotton is a seed fiber grown as a protective case around the seed of the cotton plant. Known to be the most popular natural fiber in the world, it is soft and fluffy to the touch and is usually off-white in color.
Background
Story
Derived from the Arabic word “Kutan”, cotton has been grown for more than 6000 years. First found woven in cloth around 3000 BC in Pakistan, it was then brought to Europe in about 800 AD by Arabic merchants, and by 1500 was known throughout the world.
Manufacturing
Conventional cotton requires extremely high moisture levels, resulting from rainfall or irrigation during the growing season, and a warm, dry season during the picking period. Picked cotton will go through ginning
to separate the fibers from the seeds. Significant ecological and social impact caused by large-scale intensive production is a great concern in the industry.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Breathable and wearable all year round
- Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- Takes dye well but prone to discolor after wash
- Not stable and tends to shrink
- Prone to wrinkle
- Does not gather static electricity
Extra Long Staple
Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt are cottons with the highest qualities. They are all extra-long staple and very soft to the touch.
Sustainable Options
Organic cotton and color cotton are some sustainable options that have been promoted to replace conventional cotton, with fewer synthetic agricultural chemicals and less water usage.
Application
The cotton yarn can be used for weaving and knitting. Cotton is the cooling fiber suitable to be used for making shirt, blouse, dress, T-shirt, Pants. Cotton also can be used for color dyed.
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MICROFIBER
Description
Ultra-thin synthetic fiber that is less than 1 denier.
Microfiber commonly made from nylon, acrylic, and polyester, microfiber can vary in composition and combinations of synthetic fibers. Although they have a wide range of applications, they are somewhat controversial due to the fact that they are non-biodegradable and can damage the oceanic food chain.
Background
Story
Microfiber was invented in Japan during the 1970s to create lightweight, flattering swimwear for women. Unfortunately, it failed, as the swimsuits absorbed water and became very heavy. Europeans then redeveloped microfiber, with DuPont introducing the “first” microfiber made from polyester in 1989.
Manufacturing
Microfibers usually exhibit a linear density of less than 1 dtex. There are various methods of manufacturing microfibers, including modified conventional spinning. All three conventional spinning methods, namely, melt spinning, wet spinning and dry spinning can be employed to manufacture microfibers.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight, soft and drapes easily
- Ultrafine; finer than the most delicate silk
- Insulate against wind, rain and cold weather
- Absorbs moisture very quickly with a split weave
- Shrink and stretch resistant
Effective at capturing microbes
Several studies have determined that microfiber is better than cotton at capturing bacteria. The University of California, Davis Medical Center compared the amount of bacteria picked up by a cotton-loop mop and by a microfiber mop. The cotton-loop mop reduced bacteria on the floors by 30%, whereas the microfiber mop reduced bacteria by 99%.
Prevents cross-contamination
Microfiber cloths and mops are available in different colors so that a color-coding system can be implemented for specific uses. For instance, in bathrooms, pink cloths can be used for toilets and yellow cloths for sinks. Green cloths can be used for office cleaning.
End-Uses of Microfibers
Micro fiber is used to make mats, knits, and weaves for apparel, upholstery, industrial filters, and cleaning products. The shape, size, and combinations of synthetic fibers are selected for specific characteristics, including softness, toughness, absorption, water repellency, electrodynamics, and filtering capabilities. In previous article I have discussed about application of micro fiber.
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Chiffon
From Bollywood to ball gowns, chiffon is a popular, decorative, lightweight fabric that was is associated with elegance and luxury. Chiffon’s shimmery and sheer appearance has proliferated in fashion and design for centuries.
Common Applications
Blouse, Scarves, Lingerie, Gowns, Bridalwear, Embroidery
Description
A sheer, slightly rough fabric often used to make elegant eveningwear.
Chiffon is a weaving process that produces a lightweight, plain weave fabric with a slight shine. The chiffon weave results in small puckers that make the fabric a little rough to the touch. These puckers are created through the use of s-twist and z-twist crepe yarns, which are twisted counter-clockwise and clockwise respectively. Crepe yarns are also twisted much tighter than standard yarns. The yarns are then woven in a plain weave, which means a single weft thread alternates over and under a single warp thread. The sheer fabric can be woven from a variety of textile types, both synthetic and natural, like silk, nylon, rayon, or polyester.
Background
Story
Chiffon is a weaving process that produces a lightweight, plain weave fabric with a slight shine. The chiffon weave results in small puckers that make the fabric a little rough to the touch. These puckers are created through the use of s-twist and z-twist crepe yarns, which are twisted counter-clockwise and clockwise respectively. Crepe yarns are also twisted much tighter than standard yarns. The yarns are then woven in a plain weave, which means a single weft thread alternates over and under a single warp thread. The sheer fabric can be woven from a variety of textile types, both synthetic and natural, like silk, nylon, rayon, or polyester.
Manufacturing
Chiffon fabric is made with different methods depending on the type of material that is used to weave this unique type of textile. The production of silk , for instance, involves the breeding of silkworms, the softening of cocoons, and the reeling of filaments. Polyester production, on the other hand, involves no organic components, and this fabric is made entirely from synthetic chemicals that are synthesized in a laboratory.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Sheer. Chiffon-fabric has a sheer, transparent appearance, and when held under a magnifying glass, it looks like a fine net or mesh.
- Rough feel. There are slight puckers in chiffon due to the alternating s-twist and z-twist yarns.
- Stretch. Chiffon has a slight spandex-like feel as a result of being woven in different directions. Silk chiffon has slightly more stretch than polyester chiffon, as silk is naturally more pliable.
- Strong. Chiffon fabric, both silk and synthetic, is extremely strong as a result of the twists of the yarns and the tight weave of the fabric.
- Shimmery. Chiffon has a shimmery surface. Silk chiffon has the most shimmer, while cotton chiffon is more matte.
Extra Long Staple
Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt are cottons with the highest qualities. They are all extra-long staple and very soft to the touch.
Sustainable Options
Organic cotton and color cotton are some sustainable options that have been promoted to replace conventional cotton, with fewer synthetic agricultural chemicals and less water usage.
Application
The cotton yarn can be used for weaving and knitting. Cotton is the cooling fiber suitable to be used for making shirt, blouse, dress, T-shirt, Pants. Cotton also can be used for color dyed.
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Cashmere
Cashmere is a premium material, sought after by yarn manufacturers the world over.
Description
A softer, finer, and more luxurious wool fiber collected from goat.
Cashmere is collected only from the undercoat of the Cashmere goat. Low in luster, the fiber is generally gray, brown, and white. Due to its rare production, the fiber alone is considered very luxurious, and is sometimes mixed with very soft wool.
Background
Story
The name cashmere comes from an old spelling of Kashmir – the region where its production and trade originated. The origin of these fibers dates back as far as the Mongolian empire in the 13th century.
The Silk Road helped the development of cashmere, and shawls made of this fabric reached their greatest popularity in the early 19th century.
Manufacturing
Cashmere is one of the most highly sought after textiles in high-end fashion. Its combination of warmth and softness makes it ideal for clothing that has direct skin contact or as a mid layer item for comfort and style. Both knit and woven cashmere is ideal for soft touch babywear and long wearing suits, owing to its highly adaptable fibres which can be spun into fine or thick yarns.
Unlike the bulk of traditional wool fibre, cashmere offers a finer fibre, suited to the more delicate garment or accessories. Cashmere is long lasting and becomes softer with age. In fashion circles cashmere has become synonymous with shawls, scarves, and hats, thanks to its timelessness.
Expertises
Characteristic
Silky and extremely fine
Soft; drapes with a graceful flow
Retains warmth and is comfortable to wear
Weaker than wool and mohair
Delicate and prone to pilling and abrasion
Absorbs and retains moisture like wool
Flame resistant
Hypoallergenic
Takes dye well
Anti-static
Dyeing Cashmere
Cashmere’s natural colourings are mixed shades of brown and white. These base tones respond well to dyeing. Using our state of the art colour lab our colour matching technicians can devise a dye to suit your cashmere couture. Woolyarns can fibre dye cashmere in any quantity from 50kg – 150kg.
Cashmere Blending
We can blend our cashmere fibres with Brushtail possum down and Mulberry Silk to create one of the softest knitting yarns known to modern textiles, Perino.Our fully-automated, self-contained blending unit uses pneumatic transportation, blending up to 10,000kg batches of specialised natural fibres.
Customized Cashmere
As yarn engineers, they bring decades of expertise and passion to work. The cashmere yarns can be manufactured to any exact requirements, down to the last microfibre, and customised according to the specifications and capabilities of the machines.
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Mohair
Mohair is a fabric or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat. Both durable and resilient. Mohair is considered to be a luxury fiber like cashmere, silk, and angora, because of the high involvement in the production of the material.
Description
A long, lustrous, and warm fiber
Mohair is a silk-like fiber from the hair of the Angora goat. A long, white fiber that is notable for its high sheen and smooth feel, it is considered a luxury fiber like silk and cashmere, and has been given the nickname “diamond fiber”. It is often blended with other fibers, especially wool.
Background
Story
Mohair is one of the oldest fibers in the world. The word mohair is derived from the Arabic word “mukhayyar”, which means “finest fleece selected”. The Angora goat was thought to originate from the mountains of Tibet and reached Turkey in the 16th century. It was later introduced to England, South Africa, and the United States in the 1800s. Mohair was popular as a wool-blend suiting fabric in the 1960s.
Manufacturing
The production of mohair wool has evolved greatly over the years. It’s likely that the nomadic peoples of Tibet made wool from these shaggy goats, and records indicate that this type of wool was made in Turkey thousands of years ago. When mohair became popular in England in the early 19th century, however, this fabric’s production process became much more industrialized and widespread.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Natural sheen due to the reflection of large outer fiber scales
- Most durable of all animal fibers
- High elasticity
- Absorbs and releases moisture
- Flame resistant
- Sheds dust and dirt more easily than wool
- Does not fade easily
- Takes dye exceptionally well
- Felts and shrinks less than wool
- Wrinkle resistant
- Biodegradablc
Usage Of Mohair
Like other types of wool, mohair wool is a highly popular fabric for sweaters, coats, hats, and other forms of insulative winter gear. This textile is also used to make socks, scarves, and suits. One special kind of suit can only be made with mohair wool; the two-tone suit became highly popular in the United Kingdom in the 1960s, and the popularity of this garment rapidly spread among musicians in America and worldwide.
Where Is Mohair Wool Produced?
Approximately half of the world’s mohair fabric is produced in South Africa, which makes this country the biggest producer of this textile. A significant amount of this wool is also produced in Texas, and in recent years, companies in China have done their best to catch up to South Africa and the United States in terms of mohair wool production.
The Cost
Mohair is one of the most expensive types of wool. Alongside cashmere and Suri alpaca wool, this type of goat wool commands one of the highest prices on the market, but the cost of this fabric has remained mostly steady as both the supply and demand of mohair wool have decreased at around the same rate.
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Wool
Woollen yarn is used to make thick, heavyweight woven or knitted garments. These fabrics are ideal for warm winter jackets or sweaters.
Description
A winter fiber commonly used in suits and knit fabrics
Wool is a natural protein fiber obtained from sheep, and there are over 200 different breeds worldwide. It is naturally crimped and wavy with a lofty and slightly greasy hand feel before treated. Most wools are yellowish white or ivory but some can be black, brown, gray, or random mixes.
Background
Story
Sheep are the oldest domestic animal species, dating back to around 10,000 years ago when primitive humans first covered their bodies with wool for protection. Britain’s wool manufacturing industry is believed to
be a leader in Eur around 1900 B and the death penalty was once effective for the exportation of sheep and raw wool during the 15th to 18th centuries. The first Merino sheep were introduced into Australia in 1797,
where the best merinos continue to be bred to this day.
Manufacturing
Different types of fleece are used in producing wool. Lambs’ wool is fleece that is taken from young sheep before the age of eight months. Because the fiber has not been cut, it has a natural, tapered end that gives it a softer feel. Pulled wool is taken from animals originally slaughtered for meat and is pulled from the pelt using various chemicals. The fibers of pulled wool are of low quality and produce a low-grade cloth. Virgin wool is wool that has never been processed in any manner before it goes into the manufacturing phase. This term is often misunderstood to mean higher quality, which is not necessarily the case.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Weaker than cotton and flax
- Strength decreases when wet
- Holds garment shapes well
- Retains air and warmth
- High elasticity; considered the most extensible natural fiber.
- Absorbs moisture better than cotton
- Fades and weakens under continuous sunlight
- Mildew develops when wool is damp
- Possible irritant to skin
- Trends to shrink when wet
- Scales make it possible to be felted
- Wrinkle resistant
- Biodegradable
- Suitable for mechanical recycling with relativity long fibers
Common Types Of Wool
Wool fiber of different lengths is used to create different types of wool fabric. There is woolen fabric made with shorter wool fiber, and worsted fabric made with longer fiber, which is more lightly woven.
Quality Of Wool
The quality of wool is determined by its fiber diameter, breed, amount of crimp, color, and staple strength. Fiber diameter is the most important wool characteristic when it comes to quality and price.
Potential Impact
Treating methods for fly strike in sheep can constitute animal cruelty. And the treatment process of raw wool generally involves large amounts of chemicals and an intensive use of energy.
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Camel Hair
Camel Wool, commonly called Camel Hair, is a category of fabric derived from camel coat. This unique fabric is usually derived from the Bactrian camel subspecies. These camels are mostly found at the Mongolian Steppes region across areas like China, Siberia and Turkey. Bactrian camels have long lustrous hair, unlike most camels with their short hair.
Description
A natural fiber worn by native desert travelers to protect themselves from heat.
A natural animal hair fiber, this specialty hair is usually a golden tan shade. The fibers consist of two parts: outer guard hair and an undercoat. Outer guard hair is straighter and coarser, while the undercoat is soft and fine. Baby camel is a suitable alternative to cashmere.
Background
Story
The Bible contains the first reference to camel hair; it mentions the material being used for tents, carpets, and cloaks. Camel hair was first used in fashion clothing by Jaeger for coats and suits.
Manufacturing
Unlike other animals that must be sheared to get their wool, Bactrian camels naturally shed their hair in the late spring or early summer. This means that camel hair is more sustainably sourced and there is less concern about mistreatment of animals during the harvesting process, as there is with other types of wood. Camels don’t need to be restrained, facing the possibility of injury, to have their wool harvested. Breeders can just wait until all the camels’ hair has fallen off. However, some breeders do still shear their camels if the hair hasn’t all fallen off, but they do not shear the area covering the camel’s humps that help protect them against diseases.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight, smooth and soft
- Lustrous
- Excellent insulating properties
- Low elasticity, less so than wool
- More sensitive to chemicals than wool
- Takes natural dyes well
- Hard to put through the felting process
Where is Camel Hair Made
Mongolia is the largest exporter of camel hair in the world. Many Bactrian camel breeders in Mongolia are nomadic and are descendants from a long line of Bactrian camel breeders. Many of these breeders follow the age-old techniques of harvesting the camel wool that their ancestors from long ago followed, however some breeders have adopted more modern methods to harvest the hair from a camel.
Uses for Camel Hair
Camel hair is an excellent insulator. Its thermostatic properties work to keep camels warm during frigid and snowy winters in the mountains, while also helping them stay cool in the hot desert sun. Fabrics made from camel hair share these same properties, making it a versatile fabric with a wide range of uses. In fact, it is such a versatile and valuable material that as far back as the Bible you will find mention of camel hair fabric being used to make tents, cloaks, and carpets.
Camel Hair vs Wool
Both Cashmere and camel hair are incredibly soft and warm. Cashmere garments are very lightweight and have a high moisture content. This allows them to offer varying levels of insulate based on the climate and humidity. Camel wool has thermostatic properties to keep camels cooler in hot deserts and warmer in the cold and snowy mountains. Garments made from camel hair share these same characteristics.
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Alpaca
A rare, natural animal fiber that is softer than cashmere.
Description
The most popular fiber in the world
Alpaca is a natural animal fiber from the South American camelid family. Its fiber is considered premium due to being light. fine, and warm. The fiber comes in a huge variety of colors from white to light brown,
dark brown, and gray. It is also relatively rare to find on the market and is often blended with cashmere, mohair, and silk to improve softness and to make luxury clothing market.
Background
Story
Alpacas were domesticated in the Andes Mountains region. Alpaca hair was reserved for making clothes for the royal family in the Incan Empire. Peruvians have also been wearing alpaca knits for centuries.
Manufacturing
The alpaca wool production process begins with the shearing of an alpaca. In most cases, farmers own and take care of multiple alpacas, and they may stagger the shearing process so that each animal is ready to be shorn at a different time, or they might shear their animals all at once.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight and very airy
- Very smooth and soft
- Felts readily, like wool
- Durable
- Retains warmth, and is 3-5 times warmer than wool
- Breathable and moisture wicking
- Flame resistant
- Hypoallergenic, does not irritate skin
- Takes dye well and is colorfast
- Wrinkle and pill resistant
- Slightly gathers static electricity
Two Different Alpaca Breeds
Huacaya: At a glance, Huacaya alpacas look bigger and fuzzier than Suri alpacas. In fact, it can be hard for the untrained eye to distinguish this type of alpaca from a llama since these animals share a sheep-like coat appearance.
Suri: Wool from Suri alpacas is much finer and straighter than that which is derived from Huacaya alpacas, and it’s immediately easy to tell the difference between these types of camelids.
How Much Does Alpaca Wool Cost?
The thickness of alpaca wool can affect its overall price. When alpaca fleece has a smaller diameter, it is more desirable, and it is more expensive. Thicker alpaca fleece is cheaper, and since wool produced by older alpacas is generally thicker, wool derived from younger animals is usually more expensive. Since the color of alpaca wool varies based on breed, the desirable colors produced by certain breeds are more expensive.
Where Is Alpaca Wool Produced?
Peru is the world’s largest alpaca fiber producer . This country is home to 87 percent of the world’s alpaca population, and 90 percent of alpaca wool shipments are sent from Peru.
In particular, the Arequipa region of Peru is responsible for 99 percent of the county’s alpaca fiber production, and the alpaca population in this nation continues to grow. As of 2017, Peru is home to 3.8 million of these furry animals, and the alpaca population is on the rise in the Puno, Cusco, and Arequipa regions.
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Yak
Yak fiber is extremely fine and soft making it the perfect sustainable cashmere alternative. Yak wool comes from traditionally sustainable pastoralist communities in Inner Mongolia. The wool is among the most precious wool in the world. It is as delicate and soft as cashmere, keeps you warmer than sheep’s wool, regulates moisture, is breathable and even allergy-friendly. The reason for all these properties is the extreme thickness and multi-layered nature of the wool fibres.
Description
A versatile and sustainable alternative to cashmere
Yak fiber is produced from the coat of yaks. a long-haired bovine known as “hairy cattle”. in China. There are two layers of yak hair, naturally ranging from brown to black in color. The fine yak fibers are considered warmer than merino, as soft as cashmere and as tough as camel.
Background
Story
In the 1800s, there were numerous yaks in Tibet, but after 1900 they were hunted almost to extinction. They are also considered a vulnerable species because of interbreeding with domestic cattle. It has made a welcome addition to a marketplace that is growing weary of cashmere.
Manufacturing
Yak produce two different types of hair. The first is the outer wool which is longer, coarser and stronger hair. This outer wool grows over the entire animal, the longest and strongest of this outer wool is found on the animals tail and skirt. The second hair produced is the short, fine, soft under wool, or down hair, which is produced by the animals during the winter and is a very efficient insulator.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Soft
- Shiny, more lustrous than wool
- Retains warmth, and is 10-15% warmer than wool
Features of Yak Fiber
Yak fibre is extremely fine and soft making it the perfect sustainable cashmere alternative. Its smoothness is due to the fact that every animal’s hair has a different surface texture, and yak down coat under a microscope looks scally. These scales fit tightly against the surface of the hair shaft, which makes it feel very smooth and consequently soft. It also makes it more difficult to spin into yarn, but this problem is offset by its high commercial value. Another reason for yak being so soft is its crimp.
Colors
Yak wool comes in three natural colors: light milk chocolate, dark chocolate, and the rare platinum grey. From year to year and batch to batch, these colors will change slightly as they are really just a blend of the shades closest to the target color. For example, if you have a yak that is white, its wool will end up in the platinum grey group.
What is it used for?
Before the increase in demand for yak down, it wasn’t harvested or used to create extra income for herders. Nowadays, with the rise in popularity, herders brush their yaks to procure as much of the down fiber as possible to create luxury goods from knitting and crocheting yarn, accessories, and high fashion items. After brushing, the fiber is hand sorted for color and quality.
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Flax (Linen)
Linen fabric is one of the oldest in the world. It is made from the stems of the flax plant and was a widely used and very important textile before cotton and other fibers. To produce linen fabric only the best fibers are used but other parts are not wasted as well as this is why linen fabric is eco-friendly and flax plant appreciated that much. The left over parts – linseeds, oil, straw, lower-quality fiber are used in producing a wide range of products: from lino, soap, healthy oil to paper and even cattle feed.
Description
The most popular fiber in the world
Cotton is a seed fiber grown as a protective case around the seed of the cotton plant. Known to be the most popular natural fiber in the world, it is soft and fluffy to the touch and is usually off-white in color.
Background
Story
Derived from the Arabic word “Kutan”, cotton has been grown for more than 6000 years. First found woven in cloth around 3000 BC in Pakistan, it was then brought to Europe in about 800 AD by Arabic merchants, and by 1500 was known throughout the world.
Manufacturing
Conventional cotton requires extremely high moisture levels, resulting from rainfall or irrigation during the growing season, and a warm, dry season during the picking period. Picked cotton will go through ginning
to separate the fibers from the seeds. Significant ecological and social impact caused by large-scale intensive production is a great concern in the industry.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Breathable and wearable all year round
- Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- Takes dye well but prone to discolor after wash
- Not stable and tends to shrink
- Prone to wrinkle
- Does not gather static electricity
Extra Long Staple
Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt are cottons with the highest qualities. They are all extra-long staple and very soft to the touch.
Sustainable Options
Organic cotton and color cotton are some sustainable options that have been promoted to replace conventional cotton, with fewer synthetic agricultural chemicals and less water usage.
Application
The cotton yarn can be used for weaving and knitting. Cotton is the cooling fiber suitable to be used for making shirt, blouse, dress, T-shirt, Pants. Cotton also can be used for color dyed.
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Hemp
Hemp is a sustainable and environmental friendly crop that can provide valuable raw materials to a large number of industrial applications. Traditionally harvested at full flowering for textile destinations, nowadays hemp is mainly harvested at seed maturity for dual-purpose applications and has a great potential as multipurpose crop.
Description
The most popular fiber in the world
Cotton is a seed fiber grown as a protective case around the seed of the cotton plant. Known to be the most popular natural fiber in the world, it is soft and fluffy to the touch and is usually off-white in color.
Background
Story
Derived from the Arabic word “Kutan”, cotton has been grown for more than 6000 years. First found woven in cloth around 3000 BC in Pakistan, it was then brought to Europe in about 800 AD by Arabic merchants, and by 1500 was known throughout the world.
Manufacturing
Conventional cotton requires extremely high moisture levels, resulting from rainfall or irrigation during the growing season, and a warm, dry season during the picking period. Picked cotton will go through ginning
to separate the fibers from the seeds. Significant ecological and social impact caused by large-scale intensive production is a great concern in the industry.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Breathable and wearable all year round
- Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- Takes dye well but prone to discolor after wash
- Not stable and tends to shrink
- Prone to wrinkle
- Does not gather static electricity
Extra Long Staple
Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt are cottons with the highest qualities. They are all extra-long staple and very soft to the touch.
Sustainable Options
Organic cotton and color cotton are some sustainable options that have been promoted to replace conventional cotton, with fewer synthetic agricultural chemicals and less water usage.
Application
The cotton yarn can be used for weaving and knitting. Cotton is the cooling fiber suitable to be used for making shirt, blouse, dress, T-shirt, Pants. Cotton also can be used for color dyed.
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Jute
Jute is extracted from the bark of the white jute plant (Corchorus capsularis) and to a lesser extent from tossa jute (C. olitorius). It is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and hence called the Golden Fibre. Jute is an annual crop taking about 120 days (April/May-July/August) to grow.
Description
A low-cost, low-maintenance, and fast-growing fiber.
Jute is a highly lignified natural plant fiber that is extracted from the Corchorus plant. It is also known as the “golden fiber” as it is generally golden-brown in color with a natural luster. It is second only to cotton when it comes to production and global consumption, as well as being one of the
most affordable fibers.
Background
Story
Jute originated in India and has been grown on farms for centuries. The
fiber started to be exported Jute bag in the 1880s when a system for spinning and weaving was developed in Dundee, Scotland, which now has a jute museum. Jute products were replaced by synthetic fibers in the 1970s, and by the late 1990s, bulk packaging reduced the need for jute sacks.
Manufacturing
The production of jute fabric has remained largely the same for centuries. In most cases, mature jute stalks are harvested by hand, and they are then defoliated. Jute fibers can be derived from both the inner stem and the outer skin of the stalk.
A process called retting is used to remove the non-fibrous material from the stem and skin of the jute stalk. Retting softens the stalks and makes it possible to separate the fibrous material from the unusable material by hand.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Durable
- Strength decreases when wet
- Holds garment shapes well
- Low elasticity
- Able to insulate sound and heat
- Takes dye well and is colorfast
- Anti-static
- Blodegradable
Where Is Jute Fabric Produced?
The majority of the world’s jute is produced in India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. Specifically, 85% of jute production is localized to the Ganges River Delta, which spans throughout Bangladesh and the Bengal region of India.
While China doesn’t produce as much jute as China or Bangladesh, it is still one of the world’s largest jute producers. A variety of other Asian countries also produce jute including Thailand, Burma, and Bhutan.
How Much Does Jute Fabric Cost?
The most inexpensive way to purchase jute fabric is to work directly with a manufacturer in India, Bangladesh, or another jute-producing country. Taking this approach stimulates the local economy, and it empowers textile producers to overcome exploitative crop production paradigms.
Attributes of Jute
Jute is a relatively rough fiber, which means that it isn’t well-suited for apparel applications unless it goes through an extensive production process. Instead, jute’s roughness and durability make it ideal for industrial applications. Most types of jute fabric are loose with woven networks of thick yarn.
While jute absorbs water readily, it also dries quickly, and it is highly resistant to abrasion and stains. Being plant-based, however, jute biodegrades relatively quickly, and it isn’t known for its long-term durability in outdoor applications.
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Bamboo
Description
A very strong plant fiber with outstanding biodegradability.
Bamboo is a natural bast fiber obtained from the pulp of bamboo plants. It can be processed into two major types of fiber: bamboo linen and bamboo viscose, which is the method used for the majority of bamboo fabric. Bamboo fiber is usually blended with other materials to make fabric.
Background
Story
Bamboo fiber originated in China, and was mainly used to make paper. Historically, it was also used for structural elements, such as bustles and the ribs of corsets. In the 20th century, the popularity of bamboo within the clothing industry grew, especially because of its environmental friendliness
Manufacturing
There are two ways to process bamboo into a textile: mechanically or chemically.
The mechanical process includes crushing the woody part of the plant and then applying natural enzymes to break the bamboo cell walls, creating a mushy mass. The natural fibers can then be mechanically combed out and spun into yarn. The fabric that results has a similar feel to linen. Very little bamboo material is produced this way since it’s labour intensive and expensive.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight, silky and soft
- Durable
- Highly breathable, and cool to wear summer
- High elasticity & Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- UV resistant
- Anti-bacterial and fungal resistant due to the bio-agent “bamboo kun*”
- Hypoallergenic
- Wrinkle resistant
- Anti-static
Biodegradable
Bamboo: The Plant
The premise that bamboo textiles are eco-friendly is largely based on the sustainability merits of the plant. Part of the grass family, bamboo is the fastest growing plant on Earth (giant kelp is second). Instead of taking centuries to mature, like hardwood, bamboo can be harvested after only 3 to 5 years.
Bamboo Textile Production
The good news is that some facilities have started using more benign technologies to chemically-manufacture bamboo fibers. The process used to produce lyocell from wood cellulose can be modified to use bamboo cellulose. In addition to using less toxic chemicals, the bamboo can be processed in a closed loop system whereby 99.5% of the chemicals are captured and recycled to be used again. The lyocell process is also used to manufacture TENCEL®, a fabric used by Patagonia among others.
Bamboo Labeling: “Rayon from Bamboo”
In response to the over-zealousness of companies to market bamboo textiles as super-eco and generally awesome, in the past year both the Competition Bureau of Canada and United States Federal Trade Commission have dealt with the issue of accurately labeling textile articles derived from bamboo.
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Ramie
Native to China, ramie is a linen-like fibre made from nettles and which is classified as a cellulose fiber, just like cotton, linen and rayon. Ramie fibers comes from the stem of a nettle plant called China grass (Boehmeria nivea). It looks similar to European nettle but it does not have prickles.
Description
A strong plant fiber that is similar to linen.
Ramie, also commonly known as China grass or rhea, is one of the oldest fibers cultivated for textiles. It is also one of the strongest natural plant fibers. Naturally white in color and with silk-like luster, is similar to linen.
To improve its properties, it can also be blended with other fibers Including cotton, polyester, and wool.
Background
Story
Ramie has been used since prehistoric times in China, India, and Indonesia. It was used in ancient Egypt and known in Europe during the Middle Ages. The usage of ramie increased in the mid-1980s due to a renewed interest in natural fibers.
Manufacturing
Crops, which are usually propagated with cuttings from underground stems (rhizomes), grow best in well-drained sandy soil and in warm moist climates with evenly distributed rainfall averaging at least 75 to 130 mm (3 to 5 inches) per month. Harvesting takes place when the lower portion of the stalk turns brown and the tips of new stalks appear. The stalks are usually cut by hand. Ramie fibres are obtained by decortication, a hand or mechanical process in which the bark and the adhering fibre are separated from the stalk and soaked in water, allowing the fibre to be scraped from the bark.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Stiff and brittle, but softens with age and washing
- Strength increases when wet
- Holds garment shapes well
- Increases in silkiness after washing
- Withstands high temperatures
- Low elasticity
- Releases moisture quickly
- More absorbent than cotton
- Antibacterial and mold resistant
- Takes dye well but is prone to discolor and crock
- Tends to shrink slightly
- Prone to wrinkle and break when sharply creased
- Easily gathers static electricity
Uses
Ramie is used to make such products as industrial sewing thread, packing materials, fishing nets, and filter cloths. It is also made into fabrics for household furnishings and clothing, frequently in blends with other textile fibres. Shorter fibres and waste are used in paper manufacture. Ramie leaves are edible and are a key ingredient in certain gelatinous rice cakes and rice dumplings in parts of East Asia.
Extraction of Ramie Fiber
The process of transforming the ramie fiber into a textile, is similar to the process that is used to produce linen fabric from Ramie linen blend flax. You can discover more about the process in this post on linen production and flax cultivation.
Ramie Cultivation
Ramie is best grown in loamy and sandy loam soil with a Ph of between 5.5 and 7.0. A warm humid climate is essential for cultivating ramie. The annual rainfall needs to be between 1,500mm and 3,000mm and well distributed throughout the year. Optimum temperature for growing ramie is 25 degrees Celsius and 35 degrees Celsius.
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Georgette
Georgette is a type of fabric that is woven from silk and synthetic textiles. Aside from pure silk, this fabric can also be produced from other synthetic fibers like viscose, polyester, and rayon. It is detailed with intricate draping and has a puckered surface.
Common Applications
Blouses Dresses, Gowns, Saris, Lining & Scarves
Description
Similar To Chiffon But Heavier
Georgette is a type of crêpe fabric that is typically made from pure silk but can also be made from synthetic fibers like rayon, viscose, and polyester. French dressmaker Georgette de la Plante introduced the eponymous silk fabric in the early twentieth century.
Background
Story
Georgette (from crêpe Georgette) is a sheer, lightweight, dull-finished crêpe fabric named after the early 20th century French dressmaker Georgette de la Plante.
Originally made from silk, Georgette is made with highly twisted yarns. Its characteristic crinkly surface is created by alternating S- and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft.
Manufacturing
Georgette is a woven fabric that is tightly twisted in z-twist and s-twist yarns. These twists are made in alternate directions and are responsible for the crinkled finish on the fabric’s surface. The jacquard weave or satin weave is also used to weave georgette. They produce jacquard georgette and satin georgette respectively.
This fabric was first produced with silk, making it an inspirational and luxurious fabric. Today, different georgette fabric types are made with their unique characteristics, but its silk form remains the most expensive. There are also polyester and viscose georgettes which are less breathable and cheaper than the natural silk form.
Georgette has various printings which keep up with fashion trends, mainly in botanical, floral, and tropical prints. However, this fabric is difficult to embroider, which is why the embroidered version is usually more expensive.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Breathable and Lightweight
- Nice Drape
- Sheer Effect
- Slight Stretch
- Holds Dye
- Hypoallergenic
- Easy to Handle
GEORGETTE VS CHIFFON
You might wonder, what is georgette’s characteristics that make it different than that of chiffon? Well, chiffon is a flowing and lightweight fabric, which means that it clings nicely to the body. It is good for different styling, especially those that require drapings like empire waist dresses. It is often draped in different layers and can be sheer too.
Chiffon fabric is good for pastels and muted colors since it has no distinct sheen. This allows it to fit well with delicate colors. This fabric also has an accordion subtle pleat with its “crinkle”. Its lightweight build makes it an ideal choice for daytime weddings or other outdoor events.
Varieties
Initially, the fabric was restricted for trimming and layering purposes. With the passage of time, the fabric has been branched into many sub categories. The various kinds of Georgette currently available are:
- Jacquard Georgette fabric
- Nylon Georgette fabric
- Viscose Georgette fabric
- Silk Georgette fabric
- Polyester Georgette fabric
- Satin Georgette fabric
Innovations
If what you seek is clingy and flowing, then Georgette is your best friend. With its crepe-like texture and its unusual strength when compared to its counterparts, Georgette is widely favored for springy and lively gowns and dresses. The tendency of the fabric to drape very well makes it an apt choice for many women who love the soft silky yet comfortable look.
Due to its thin texture, the Georgette fabric is also light weight and easy to handle. For this reason the fabric is also used as a layer in a larger garment without adding to the weight of the overall costume or giving out a bulky look. It was a very popular fabric in the 1930s for the bouncy effect in the gowns worn by the women of that era.
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Crepe De Chine
Crepe is a weaving or fabric treatment method that results in a unique rippling, three-dimensional texture. Garments and other textiles made with crepe fabric are generally delicate and used for ceremonial occasions.
Common Applications
Blouses, Scarves, Lingerie, Dresses, Lining
Description
It’s how the French call it, the “Crepe from China”.
Crepe de Chine can be made from different fabrics, but the most common kind is processed using silk. Other varieties are manufactured using other materials with similar feels to silk, including cotton and synthetic items, such as acetate, rayon, nylon, or polyester.
Since it is lightweight, the words “fluid drape” and “silky smooth feel” are commonly used when answering the question about what is Crepe de Chine. This is why you will likely find scarves and shawls made from Crepe de Chine as well as airy blouses and bridal dresses.
Background
Story
Crepe fabric has no clear origin point in the history of human civilization. Since the concept behind crepe is so simple, many cultures have adopted forms of this fabric at one stage of development or another. For instance, Crepe is still used by Orthodox Greek women for mourning, and various cultures of the Indian subcontinent incorporate crepe into their traditional garments.
In the West, crepe gained popularity outside of mourning attire during the 19th century. Very rapidly, a company called Courtaulds almost completely dominated the crepe manufacturing market, and over the years, this iconic firm experimented with a variety of different crepe weaves and materials.
Manufacturing
A wide variety of different processes may be used to make the base textiles used in crepe fabric. The only distinctive feature of this type of textile is its weave, so whether it’s with natural or synthetic fibers, designers and textile manufacturers have found a myriad of different ways to create an effect that can be agreed-upon as being “crepe.”
Crepe yarn is made with a process called hard twisting, which involves twisting the textile fibers used in yarn manufacture much tighter than usual. Additionally, alternating “S” and “Z” twists are used to give the yarn its distinctive bouncy texture. Also known as right-hand and left-hand twists, these alternating spinning techniques result in crepe yarn no matter which fabric material is used.
Once the crepe yarn has been manufactured, it may be dyed, treated, and spun into garments. In some cases, the production of finished crepe products may occur at the same facility where the yarn is spun, but usually, the work is split between two separate firms.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Breathable and wearable all year round
- Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- It doesn’t feel heavy on the skin
- This is great for wicking moisture
What is crepe fabric used for?
Generally, crepe fabric is used to create stunning eveningwear (suits or gowns), and high-fashion clothing like blouses and pants. But it can also be used to create unique looking curtains, pillows, scarves and shawls. Crepe is a very versatile fabric!
What kind of fabric is crepe?
Crepe is a relatively old kind of fabric, which means that there’s been a lot of time for it to develop. The term ‘crepe’ doesn’t denote any type of fiber, but rather a way of making a fabric. So, is crepe a natural fabric? Sometimes. Traditionally, crepe is made from silk, but it can also be made from other materials like wool, cotton, rayon, and polyester.
So then, what is crepe material? The key to crepe lies in the wrinkled, bumpy look of the fabric. This look can be achieved in different ways, but part of the process is usually a very tight twisting of the fibers before making them into cloth.
Common kinds of crepe fabric
Crepe de Chine: Crepe de Chine fabric originated in China, as the name suggests, and is a very lightweight type of crepe usually made from silk. An important difference between Crepe de Chine and other types of crepe is that Crepe de Chine isn’t puckered, but feels smooth on the skin. This type of crepe can also be made from polyester for a similar look and feel, but a more affordable price tag.
Crepe georgette: This is a soft, smooth crepe silk fabric, which can also be made from silk-like synthetics like rayon. Crepe georgette tends to be more elastic than other types of crepe and drapes nicely. This crepe is usually what gowns are made out of.
Polyester crepe: Any crepe fabric made from polyester is a polyester crepe. This crepe tends to be lightweight, thin, and is used when making dresses, blouses, and pants.
Scuba crepe: Scuba crepe is a type of polyester crepe that contains a small percentage of spandex. This makes it a fabric with the characteristic crepe look and feel on the surface, while also being smooth and elastic on the backside.
Plissé crepe: This is a crepe that has been chemically treated to create a folded pleat look. Plissé crepe is usually made from cotton.
Crepe back satin: Like scuba crepe, crepe back satin is a fabric with a satin weave, where one side looks and feels like satin, and the other has a crepe look and feel to it. This fabric can be made from any kind of fiber.
Crepe charmeuse: Crepe charmeuse is usually a with a satin weave, but with yarns that were twisted using the crepe method. This makes crepe charmeuse a crepe fabric while still smooth and reflective like satin.
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Sisal
Description
The most popular fiber in the world
Cotton is a seed fiber grown as a protective case around the seed of the cotton plant. Known to be the most popular natural fiber in the world, it is soft and fluffy to the touch and is usually off-white in color.
Background
Story
Derived from the Arabic word “Kutan”, cotton has been grown for more than 6000 years. First found woven in cloth around 3000 BC in Pakistan, it was then brought to Europe in about 800 AD by Arabic merchants, and by 1500 was known throughout the world.
Manufacturing
Conventional cotton requires extremely high moisture levels, resulting from rainfall or irrigation during the growing season, and a warm, dry season during the picking period. Picked cotton will go through ginning
to separate the fibers from the seeds. Significant ecological and social impact caused by large-scale intensive production is a great concern in the industry.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight
- Durable, remains strong when wet
- Breathable and wearable all year round
- Absorbs and releases moisture very quickly
- Takes dye well but prone to discolor after wash
- Not stable and tends to shrink
- Prone to wrinkle
- Does not gather static electricity
Extra Long Staple
Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt are cottons with the highest qualities. They are all extra-long staple and very soft to the touch.
Sustainable Options
Organic cotton and color cotton are some sustainable options that have been promoted to replace conventional cotton, with fewer synthetic agricultural chemicals and less water usage.
Application
The cotton yarn can be used for weaving and knitting. Cotton is the cooling fiber suitable to be used for making shirt, blouse, dress, T-shirt, Pants. Cotton also can be used for color dyed.
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Smart Designer Software
SmartDesigner™ is a joint invention of PrimaVision’s former CTO Wong Fai and Modern HighTech Co., Ltd. It is an innovative and intelligent design CAD for the apparel, textile and related industries, and it is the world’s first fashion and textile CAD software with an Application Service Provider system (ASP). This web-based program allows anyone to use the program anywhere at any time. Also, it is on a pay-per-use basis, meaning there is no burden of an initial investment as long as a monthly fee is paid. SmartDesigner™ will make your work faster and more efficient!
Abaca
Description
A low-cost and renewable fiber that can achieve a silk-like texture.
Abaca, also known as Manila hemp, is extracted from the leaf sheath around the trunk of the abaca plant (also known as Musa textilis). A close relative of the banana tree, it is considered among the strongest natural fibers, and is usually up to 3 meters long. The best grades of the fiber are fine, lustrous, and light beige in color. Cellulose abaca fibers are relatively smooth and straight.
Background
Story
Discovered by the Dutch, the abaca plant originated in Sumatra, Philippines in 1925. It was successfully introduced into Central America soon after. During World War Il, production Ships rigging in the Philippines declined, while production increased in the United States. Abaca was widely used for rigging ships and its pulp was used to make sturdy Manila envelopes at that time. Aklan, a province in the Philippines, produces the highest quality fiber of this type.
Manufacturing
This crop grows best in well-draining loamy soils. Abaca is propagated by planting mature rootstock and it is usually done at the beginning of the rainy season. It takes 18 to 24 months before the plant can be harvested and used as raw material for different purposes.
Processing can be done by hand or machine. It involves pulling off the plant’s outer layer from its petiole and then scraping the pulpy material to be able to get to the fibre strands. These strands are then dried either mechanically or under the sun. After this, they are cleaned and sorted according to the market needs.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight and buoyant
- Soft and lustrous
- High elasticity, tensility and resilience
- Water and grease repellent e Resistant to saltwater damage e Takes dye well and is colorfast
- Renewable
What is abaca used for?
Today, abaca is used for specialty papers such as currency notes, tea and coffee bags, vacuum bags, cigarette filter paper, sausage casing paper, and high-quality writing paper. Japan, one of the top importers of this fibre, uses abaca for their yen banknotes. Abaca is also used to make twines, ropes, and fishing lines and nets.
Why is abaca sustainable?
Abaca is a sustainable fibre because it can be made into various products that answer the present needs and demands in our society without having to compromise environmental standards. Its production has a low environmental impact and it’s a renewable resource; can be grown and harvested with very little chemical processing. It is a good thing that there is a growing preference for this fibre since it is recognised as the “strongest among all natural fibres in the world.” It is said to have superior qualities over other materials such as man-made fibres like plastics and synthetic materials. This explains why this raw material is now being used in various industries as mentioned earlier.
Abaca exports
The Philippines is the leading producer of abaca worldwide, supplying almost 90% of the global demand for this sustainable fibre. From October to December 2020 alone, the country produced 17.61 thousand metric tonnes of abaca fibre. Most of the products that are exported are abaca pulp, yarns, cordage, fibre crafts and raw fibre. The leading importers of abaca products are Europe, the US and Japan.
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Llama
Technically speaking, llama fiber is not wool. But many people refer to it as such. A whole fleece consists of two coats: guard hair and down. Guard hair is thick and without crimp, making it excellent for use in rope. Down is soft and luxurious, suitable for finer garments. Using llama wool for knitting requires the selection of the proper type of wool. Because of the broad range of wool types present in the llama population, people are able to make a variety of things from llama wool.
Description
An animal fiber that is similar to alpaca, but less fine and soft.
Llama is a natural animal fiber from the South American camelld family. This fiber similar to alpaca, but is thicker and less premium. Llamas have a double coat: a silky, wavy undercoat and a thicker, coarser outer coat. Generally, llama fibers are shades of brown, but can also contain specks of black and white.
Background
Story
Llamas are native to the Andes Mountains and were domesticated over 5000 years ago. European settlers adopted the name llama (also “lama” or “glama”) from native Peruvians. Their popularity declined between the 11th and 13th centuries when they were selectively bred as load-carrying vehicles, and given the nickname “beasts of burden”. Their rediscovery occurred in the 20th century.
Manufacturing
Llama fiber contains no natural oils or lanolin which also makes it lightweight and it yields 90–93% of its original weight when processed. It shrinks little in washing. Many natural colors can be found, ranging from white, light brown, dusty rose, dark brown, gray and silver, all the way to black.
Expertises
Characteristic
- Lightweight, hallow hair
- Soft and fine
- Straighter than most animal fibers
- Durable
- Difficult to process due to the diversity of fiber thickness
- Less elastic than alpaca fiber
- Weakens under continuous sunlight
- Oil and chemical resistant
- Hypoallergenic
- Shrinks easily and loses shapes when wet
Types of Llama Fiber
Llamas have no formal breed classification except by the fiber they produce. There are two types, three types, or four type names, depending on where you research or with whom you speak. For instance, llamas in the two-category type are identified as ones with coarse fleece, and ones with soft or fine fleece. The three-category type llamas are Light-Wooled with smoothed heads, ears, and legs; Medium-Wooled with some fiber on their bodies and smoothed heads, ears, and legs; Heavy-Wooled with enormous amount of fibers on their entire bodies.
Llama Fiber
As with alpaca fleece, llama fibers has varying degrees of medullation or hollowness and are therefore lightweight. Llama fibers are also extremely warm; strong; durable; lanolin-free and therefore hypoallergenic; water-resistant but will lose its shape and shrink a bit when wet; versatile; comes in many natural colors: white, silver, grey, various shades of brown, rust, dusty rose, and so on. Unlike its alpaca cousin, however, the llama fleece color scheme can be solid, patterned, broken, or spotted (there is definitely no need for dyes here).
Hand Spinning & Uses
Prepared llama wool is a spinner’s delight – clean, odorless, greaseless, and light. The finished yarn depends on the spinner. It can be very textured, or smooth and fine. I prefer working with pure llama wool that is not blended with anything, but novices will find a blend of llama with 15-25% good quality sheep wool easier to begin with.
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Kapok
Description
A renewable, natural plant fiber often referred to as “poor man’s silk”
Kapok is a natural cellulose plant fiber obtained from the fruit of the kapok tree, or the tree itself. It is sometimes referred to as Java cotton, ceiba, Java kapok, or silk cotton. The color ranges from white, pale yellow, to light brown, and consists of silky and lustrous textures. It is often blended with other fibers.
Background
Story
Kapok originated in South America and Africa. By the late 19th century, it became an important crop in Asia. With rising global wealth in the late Victorian era, the trend towards “overstuffed” sofas began. As kapok fibers were much cheaper than horsehair – the standard upholstery material used at the time – demand grew rapidly. Kapok was replaced by cheaper manmade substitutes after World War Il but has recently made a comeback as organic and natural fibers have risen in popularity.
Manufacturing
Kapoks do not bloom every year, and some may go 5–10 years without flowering. When the tree does bloom, however, it is prolific, producing up to 4,000 fruits measuring up to 15 cm (6 inches) long. Eventually these pods open on the tree, exposing the pale kapok fibres to the wind for dispersal. The fibres, in which over 200 seeds are loosely embedded, is sometimes referred to as silk cotton and is yellowish brown, lightweight, and lustrous.
Expertises
Characteristic
-Very lightweight – 8 times lighter than cotton
– Soft, silky and oily
– Buoyant – 5 times more so than cork
– Brittle
– Water repellent
– Highly flammable
– Anti-microbial due to its natural bitter components
– Able to insulate sound
– Hypoallergenic
– Absorbs oils and dyes well
– Biodegradable and renewable